How Barrio Café Created Savory, Plant-Based Chorifu Tacos in Wahiawā

Photo: Deeshen Shah

Walking into the bright colors of Wahiawā’s Barrio Café feels like walking into a warm Mexican hug. On the counter are Jarritos sodas and house-made salsas in vibrant reds and greens; on the walls, hand-painted murals of Selena Gomez and Frida Kahlo. Barrio, meaning neighborhood in Spanish, is where families and friends gather for comfort foods like huevos rancheros, chilaquiles and carne asada burritos.

Now there’s a twist, created specially for a neighbor: the tofu-based Chorifu taco that chef-owner Miriam Olivas spent a year creating.

SEE ALSO: Wahiawā Kilani Avenue Food Crawl

Chorifu joins Olivas’ taco menu of shredded beef, chicken, carnitas, carne asada, birria, fish and shrimp options. The new vegetarian creation is topped with pico de gallo and queso fresco and served with rice and beans for $15.55. The inspiration, Olivas says, came from Poni and Brandon Askew, who own the nearby Hawaiian Vinegar & Spice Co. and turned to a vegan diet for several years. “I need to make you something you can eat!” Olivas thought and reached out to Aloha Tofu Factory, the third-generation tofu maker in Kalihi.

Photo: Deeshen Shah

Tofu was a different animal for Olivas, who grew up in Los Angeles, Mexico and Hawai‘i. With no experience cooking with tofu or okara (soy pulp, a byproduct of tofu and soy milk production), she experimented with different ratios. Tofu and okara provided protein, fiber and minerals. To these, she added various seasonings and finally settled on a blend of smoky paprika, ancho and guajillo chiles, Mexican oregano and other spices.

Her goals were a depth of flavor and a texture that mimicked that of chorizo. So aside from ingredients, Olivas was also working out the process. Over a year, it came together: She marinates her seasoned tofu-okara mix, freezes it, gives it a second marinade and freezes it again. The freezing, she found, added a chewy denseness with just enough looseness to absorb the seasonings.

Throughout, Olivas tested the developing recipe with friends, neighbors and customers. “Would you serve this to customers?” she asked. “Would you serve this to your kids?” When kids loved it, she knew she had a winner.

Chorifu tacos, right. Photo: Deeshen Shah

Our family often heads across the island to eat at Barrio Café after a morning paddle in town. I usually order the green chile Mexi-loco moco and the Chorifu tacos. Rich and savory, with hints of smoke and earthiness, the Chorifu is pleasantly chewy and slightly crispy around the edges, providing a nice contrast to the soft tortillas. The three tacos on the plate pack 18 grams of protein.

SEE ALSO: Wandering Wahiawā: A Local’s Guide to Neighborhood Eats

It’s not just for tacos—Chorifu can be swapped out for animal protein in any dish, from burritos and avocado toast to chili. Olivas wants to produce it on a larger scale, including for other food businesses looking to expand their vegan offerings.

“Food is love, love that one plants, love that one nourishes, love that one offers as a cultural bridge to share your culture,” she says. “You have to cook with good energy and intention for good energy to be in the food you serve.”

Open Monday to Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., 672 Kilani Ave., (808) 622-3003, barriocafe808.com, @barriocafe808