Texas de Brazil Brings a Meaty New AYCE to Ala Moana Center

The invitation to preview Texas de Brazil gets forwarded to me “bc MEAT!” and honestly, that about sums it up. I’ve never been to a Brazilian steakhouse or churrascaria, though they’re very popular on the mainland. Texas de Brazil has more than 50 locations in the U.S. and 10 more internationally. So I’m extra curious about Ala Moana Center’s new AYCE option.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Texas de Brazil opens to the public today in the former LensCrafters space on the fourth floor next to Olive Garden. Floor-to-ceiling windows front the spacious dining room, and red walls, dark accents and gilded mirrors set the scene for a feast. Peeking through a window on one side, we see in the kitchen an automatic grill turning skewers of meat over an open flame. This is the churrasco-style cooking of meats that Brazil is known for.

The two all-you-can-eat options are $69.99 for the churrasco and salad bar and $39.99 for just the salad bar. Keiki 2 years and under are free, 3-5 years are $5 and 6-12 years are half price when you buy a full-price meal of churrasco and salad bar. The AYCE pricing does not include alcohol and beverages, like the caipirinha.

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If the salad bar is any indication, the meat choices will be serious. We find roasted jalapeños, olives, mozzarella, manchego cheese, smoked salmon, salami, capers, hearts of palm, pineapple carpaccio, the list goes on. There’s also a hot bar offering lobster bisque, mushrooms, potatoes, rice and beans as well as sides brought to the table like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread), fried bananas and mashed potatoes (both included in AYCE).

But don’t make the mistake I did and load up your plate here—you need to save room for the main attraction.

Photos: Thomas Obungen

First, get to know the paper coins on your table: They control your meat service. The green side up lets the roaming servers know we want meat, while the red side indicates we’re taking a break. This is the fun part—gaucho servers carrying huge skewers of freshly grilled meat come and carve off pieces for us.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

This is how we try about half of the more than 15 different meats, including flank steak, picanha sirloin caps, Brazilian sausage, Parmesan drumettes, Parmesan-crusted pork loins, filet mignon and leg of lamb. The signature picanha is the most flavorful and well-seasoned—ask for some sliced off the end to get the crusty outside and juicy inside. The leg of lamb is another standout, very peppery and lamb-y. I eat it all even though it comes toward the end of our meal when I’m pushing other things around my plate.

The gauchos replenish their offerings frequently, seemingly popping out of the walls with steaming skewers. That’s why next time, I won’t rush to get all the meats on my plate, then let them go cold while I eat my way through. I’ll savor one or two at a time while they’re hot and juicy, then flip my coin to green again. For $70, I want to be strategic and get the full value. But it’s also about the experience that you won’t find anywhere else in town, especially for a special occasion.

Texas de Brazil opens today and currently only has dinner hours. You may not need a reservation, as they’ll take walk-in customers, but you can make a reservation online or by phone.

Open Sunday through Thursday 4 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4 to 11 p.m., Ho‘okipa Terrace, fourth floor of Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., (808) 944-207, texasdebrazil.com, @texasdebrazilhawaii