How Fate Led to Karaage Fried Chicken: Tenkatori in Hilo

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Just a few days ago I learned a new Japanese word—en (縁), meaning “fate.” The word was taught to me by Misae Moro, the owner of Tenkatori, a casual karaage eatery she opened recently in Hilo. Moro tells me about en because it’s how she arrived at her new life in Japanese fried chicken.

While vacationing in Hilo with her husband, she says, she fell in love with the beauty of the area and the warmth of its people. She fell so deeply in love that she took a year off from running her own Japanese language school in Castro Valley, California, and moved to Hilo. It was while working as a server at local restaurants that she heard about franchise opportunities at Tenkatori, a Japanese karaage chain that opened in Kailua-Kona last year. Long story short, Moro left California for good, moved her family to Hilo and opened her shop in August. All because of one vacation. En, she says.

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

I have been to both locations of Tenkatori and learned that the West Hawai‘i branch is owned by the corporation, which is headquartered in Kyushu. The Hilo branch is owned by Moro. Tenkatori’s thigh meat is marinated in a gluten-free mix from Kyushu and cooked to order, making the pieces very juicy and succulent. Sold on their own or as part of a bento ($15 to $16), they taste distinctly of Japan. There are also deep-fried wings (six for $18) and fingers of breaded, fried chicken breast (10 for $10, 20 for $19). Sauces, if you choose to dip, are $1.50 and include kara miso, yuzu aioli and liliko‘i honey.

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Not to be missed are the side dishes prepared daily by Moro and exclusive to her Hilo shop. Japanese potato salad, kinpira, tsukemono and other vegetable dishes ($6 each) all add wonderful balance to the karaage and convey a Japanese mother’s touch. Recently introduced gyudon (beef bowls) and unadon (grilled eel bowls) sell out frequently during the lunch rush. If you are a Japanophile, I highly recommend you take advantage of Tenkatori’s limited counter seating, as the entire aesthetic is reminiscent of a neighborhood bento joint in Japan.

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Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Moro’s little eatery has drawn buzz in a town of 40,000 souls where new eateries do not open frequently. Having visited a few times, I notice the shop already has a loyal customer base. Regulars come in several times a week, and the staff knows their orders. Conversations between Moro and her customers are free-flowing—Moro is from Osaka, whose people are famously friendly and down to earth; she is a natural at keeping the room lively and convivial. In the future, she wants to open in the evenings with beer, sake and a karaage snack bar. I’ll make sure to reserve my regular corner stool at the counter for this.

Misae Moro Goto with her sons. Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Delving deeper into en 縁, the fate that brought Moro to Hilo, I also find in the definition the words connection, destiny and family. Moro and her family have found a connection with Hilo and its people that is truly heartwarming, just like the karaage. 縁, indeed.

Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., 811 Laukapu St. #1, Hilo, (808) 990-5051, @tenkatori_hilo