Indian food in Honolulu? Hardly new. Eateries like Café Maharani and Himalayan Kitchen are longtime favorites, but the scene remained sparse and little changed—until recently. Spice Up House of Cuisine opened on South King Street in 2021, followed by Curry Guru’s Sri Lankan and South Indian specialties at farmers markets, then Tadka Indian Cuisine last year. And then the floodgates opened.

Five Indian spots have opened across the city this year. Most are expansions, one is new and the last is exclusively at farmers markets. The fact that some offer Nepalese momo dumplings reflects the owners’ heritage and broadens choices beyond masalas and vindaloos. Here’s a look at the newcomers.

New Kamana Kitchen Kapahulu

Photo: Mari Taketa

The Kapahulu spot that was home to Haili’s Hawaiian Foods reopened in late September under a familiar name. New Kamana Kitchen, which has been slinging up naan breads, tandoor skewers and butter chicken, Goan shrimp and other curries from a vast menu on Bishop Street since 2017, transported the same menu across town, minus the lunch specials. Spice levels are customizable—choose level 2 if you like your heat to be noticeable but not building to an unbearable crescendo. The dining area is triple the size of Kamana’s Downtown restaurant, and there’s a small lot with free parking in the back.

760 Palani Ave., (808) 734-3160, newkamanakitchen.com, @newkamanakitchen

SEE ALSO: Why I’m Obsessed With Kamana Kitchen 2, Honolulu’s Newest Indian Restaurant

Namaste Indian & Nepali Cuisine

In the space of the former Bombay Palace, Namaste opened in late summer in Discovery Bay across from the Ilikai Hotel. Among the vindaloos, biryanis and assorted styles of curry, Nepali chicken or vegetable momo dumplings come three ways here: steamed, fried with chile sauce or in sesame-tomato jhol broth. Menu sections list seven vegan and seven vegetarian dishes. Desserts include house-made pista kulfi pistachio ice cream, and there’s masala chai of Darjeeling tea and warm spices. The restaurant validates parking behind the building—enter from Kaio‘o Drive.

1778 Ala Moana Blvd. #213, (808) 941-5111, namasterestauranthi.com, @namastehnl

Café Tadka (temporarily closed for renovation)

An offshoot of McCully Shopping Center’s Tadka, itself an offshoot of Spice Up (Tadka’s chef, Ganesh Shrestha, is former chef and partner at Spice Up), Café Tadka opened at 808 Center in May with a small, wide-ranging menu. Momos are here, along with South Indian dosas, classic desserts and a smattering of dishes that lean into the Indo-Chinese side of the cuisine, including Hakka noodles and Sichuan fried rice. Food comes on disposable plates or packaged for takeout, though there are some dine-in tables.

808 Sheridan St., (808) 888-0216, @cafetadka808

SEE ALSO: Tadka: Where Indian Food Comes Alive

Lasoon Nepali & Indian Cuisine

Photo: Mari Taketa

Lasoon, a fast casual Indian counter at UH Mānoa since 2018, expanded to its own space at Pearlridge Center’s Wai Makai this past spring. Look for the same menu of curries and sides as at UH, except that prices are a tad higher in the mall. And unlike UH, where all side dishes including chana masala and fiery hot eggplant are vegan, the new location’s palak paneer and butter mix vegetables aren’t. Chicken momos, a nod to the owners’ Nepali heritage, are on offer daily; small containers of chutney and piquant, earthy pickles are for sale near the drinks, and the space has a few tables for dine-in. Word is Lasoon hopes to expand to Kapolei next.

98-1005 Moanalua Road, 2nd floor, (808) 744-0400, @lasoonpearlridgecenter

Simply Indulge

A farmers market specialist, Simply Indulge debuted in January with a plant-based menu of Indian favorites and specials. There’s pani puri, crispy shells filled with curry, fresh tomatoes and cilantro and an herby sauce; plus dosas, salads, curries, lassi and house-made masala chai. Many dishes are vegetarian; some are vegan. Find this one at the Kaiser High School PTSA farmers market on Tuesdays and the Farm Lovers Saturday morning market in Kaka‘ako and Sunday morning market in Kailua next to Adventist Castle Health Hospital.

Multiple locations, @simplyindulge808

AYCE Nights brings together my favorite spots to eat when my friends and I are craving a load of food on the cheap. All-you-can-eat places always come up, and lucky for us, there are many options in the Honolulu area.

Korean barbecue spots are perfect when you crave lots of banchan sides, bubbling stews and savory, grilled meat (and you don’t mind smelling like it after.) Be aware that these places are popular with families and tend to get busy, fast. Most do not take reservations, so make sure your party is ready to wait or alternatively, visit during off-hours.

Sura Hawai‘i

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Sura is at the top of my list because not only is the meat AYCE, so are the hot sides sizzling at the edges of the barbecue grill. As the grill heats, complimentary appetizers of macaroni with shredded cheese, steamed eggs, and corn cheese heat up. They’re ready to eat by the time our first order of meat arrives.

For $28.95 per person, you can order three meats and three house specialties at a time. Various styles of beef and pork include practically every cut that you can think of: kalbi, thin brisket, pork belly and more. If that isn’t enough, chicken and shrimp are also available. I always order the same house specialties: seafood tofu kim chee soup, french fries and lettuce wraps (for the meat). These pair perfectly with the heavy, meat-centric dinner.

Be prepared to wait during dinner hours. We’ve waited for an hour to get a table because they were so busy. During lunch hours, I have not experienced a wait, and the AYCE deals are easier to stomach at $20 per person.

Open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a.m to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., 1726 Kapi‘olani Blvd. #101, (808) 944-5227, surahawaii.com, @sura_hawaii

SEE ALSO: AYCE Nights: My Favorite All-You-Can-Eat Sushi Spot in Honolulu

Gen Korean BBQ House

Photo: Thomas Obungen

This Los Angeles-based Korean barbecue chain has two locations on O‘ahu and they’re both at malls. The one in Ala Moana Center is always busy with people waiting outside—it’s a good thing that you can walk around when you’re waiting for a table.

The lunch AYCE is $19.95, while dinner goes up to $29.95. Pro tip: Look over the menu beforehand, so you are not overwhelmed by the variety of meat choices. Gen has the largest selection by far, with more than 30 options on the dinner menu. Appetizers included with the AYCE special change somewhat frequently. The japchae, calamari fritters and popcorn chicken—plus the included banchan dishes—help to settle our hunger as we wait for the meat.

Gen also accommodates people who are vegan and vegetarian: The AYCE seasonal assorted vegetables is half the price of the regular dinner at $15. My vegetarian friends enjoy coming here because they too can get the AYCE experience without paying a hefty price for a meatless meal.

Open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a.m to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., (808) 944-5227, genkoreanbbq.com/honolulu, @genkoreanbbq__hawaii

SEE ALSO: AYCE Nights: My Favorite All-You-Can-Eat Hot Pot Spots in Honolulu

Sikdorak

Photo: Maddy Chow

Sikdorak is a local classic for Korean BBQ with three locations on O‘ahu, though locals know that the original still resides in Samsung Plaza on Ke‘eaumoku Street. Meats include classic KBBQ options with bulgogi, brisket, steaks and pork jowl as a few options for an all-day price of $29.60. But, when we come the beef tongue is always in the rotation.

Banchan like kim chee and fishcakes are included, but that’s it. Kim chee chigae or bibimbap run around $10 to $15, making Sikdorak the most expensive AYCE Korean barbecue option if you’re looking to supplement your trays of meat.

For me, the late-night hours are what make Sikdorak the most convenient. Formerly a 24-hour spot, the pandemic reduced their hours to 10 a.m. to 4 a.m. Still, they hit their audience of college students, clubbers and others who are starving after a late night out.

Open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 a.m., 655 Ke‘eaumoku St., (808) 294-4748, honolulukoreanbbq.com, @sikdorak808

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Monarch Poke, da new poke place in ‘Aiea, took ova da stall for what used to be Sakana Express in Pearl Kai Shopping Center. While me and da family wuz waiting in line, da lady in front of me wen ask da same question I wuz wondering. “Are you related to Monarch Seafoods in Kalihi?” Da cashier wen tell, “Nooo, but they’re good too. They’ve been around forever.” Wuz so nice, da way she answered. I wondered if planny people been asking.

I seen that Monarch Poke had posted one picture of their lobster poke so das what initially got me hyped about checking dis place out. But nevah have da lobster poke on dis particular day. Da cashier said follow dem on top Instagram for see when dey might offer ’em again. So for our poke we went with da less common California Poke and da Tofu Poke that looked like had cold ginger chicken sauce on top.

SEE ALSO: Owners and Chefs Share Their Best Recommendations on What to Order at Their Poke Shops

For our plates, I asked what their most popular dishes wuz. She said da Laulau & Kalua Pig Cabbage (aka Hawaiian Plate), Miso Braised Pork Belly, and Garlic Shrimp wuz definitely their top three. I kinda had my eye on some of their more unusual choices like da Ahi Belly Ginisang, Tamarind Glazed Pork Ribs and Bagoong Fried Rice, but since wuz our first time we decided for go with da flow and get da people’s choices. Plus we got one Katsu Sando for one of our keiki and da Seared Mahi Mahi Sandwich for my aunty. All da entrées came with choice of white rice, brown rice or garlic rice, and either mac salad or toss salad. And da salads come with choice of calamansi, papaya seed or lemon miso vinaigrette dressing.

Here’s da dish-by-dish review.

California poke, market price

Supa ‘ono! Kinda like one California roll but in poke form. Had ‘ahi mixed with imitation crab, avocado, cucumber, green onion and tobiko in one spicy mayo sauce. I would keep coming back jus for dis.

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Tofu poke, 75 cents per ounce

Cold ginger chicken sauce taste-es good with pretty much everyting. Tofu wuz no exception. Dis Tofu Poke wuz winnahs.

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Hawaiian plate, $25

Monarch Poke’s Hawaiian Plate came with lau lau, kalua pig cabbage, poi, chile peppah waddah, lomi salmon and choice of sides. Wuz pork kine lau lau with little bit of what looked like salmon inside. We thought dis could’ve been one dash more flavorful, but da kalua pig cabbage and lomi salmon wuz outstanding. Usually those tings is just afterthoughts. Da kalua pig cabbage wuz cooked to perfection, not like wuz sitting around for hours and all soggy. And da lomi salmon tasted like wuz lomi-ed fresh.

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Miso-braised pork belly, $16

Da cook in da back wen smile up when I ordered dis one. It’s because the Miso Braised Pork Belly is his favorite, da cashier explained. Da pork wuz soft and succulent, but da sauce wuz too sweet for me. Wit dis one I decided for sample da garlic rice, which wuz white rice gently infused with garlic in some magical process. I liked it, but I tink regular rice could bettah absorb da sweetness of the pork.

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Garlic shrimp, $21

If da Kaua‘i shrimps came with shell off, dis wuz going be for our keiki. If shell on, den we might’ve had to choose someting else, cuz our keiki doesn’t eat da shell, head or tail. Luckily we could get ’em either way. Da shrimps came with loads of sautéed garlic and wuz good!

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Katsu sando, $15

Our oddah keiki chose dis. One pork cutlet on top Japanese milk bread with shredded cabbage, katsu sauce and Pele’s aioli. You should’ve seen our keiki’s face light up when she found out it came with fries. I never get fo taste, but she gave dis one big thumbs up. And da fries ova hea stay keiki approved.

SEE ALSO: Kaimukī’s Nana Ai Katsu Finally Opens for Dine-In

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Seared mahi mahi sandwich, market price

You could get dis with fries or salad. Da seared mahi came with pickled mango and calamansi aioli on top one kaiser bun. I going say right here my aunty’s one picky eater. She SAYS she eats anyting, but SHE LIE. Anyhow, I nevah get for sample dis sandwich, so I no can say how good it is. All I can report is I witnessed my aunty eat DA WHOLE TING. And das rare. I asked her, Oh you nevah like save half for later? She shook her head no. I asked, how come? She stuck her lips out and said, Because it was good.

Da hardest part about finding little bit fancier places for eat is when your family get young people who don’t wanna eat adventurous and old people who even more picky than da young people. We wuz lucky that at Monarch Poke we truly found someting for everybodies.

98-199 Kamehameha Hwy, (808) 762-3232, monarchpoke.com, @monarch_poke

Lee A. Tonouchi is a longtime Frolic contributor whose plays and books, written entirely in pidgin, have won national awards and recognition. His play “Gone Feeshing” is currently being performed at Kumu Kahua Theatre until Feb. 19, 2023.

lates

My first taco from Straight Outta Husk was at a private party they were catering. I wandered over, picked up a plate of street tacos and bit into one. “Oh my God,” I moaned around a juicy mouthful of perfectly seasoned carnitas. It was so good. From chatting with Marhen Yee Luevano, the chef and co-owner, I learned that Straight Outta Husk was just about to reopen its first brick-and-mortar counter inside Palama Supermarket at Waimalu Shopping Center in ‘Aiea. I noted it on my phone, adding a couple of exclamation marks. I couldn’t wait to try her food again.

Photo: Tracy Chan

The next time I did was at the colorfully decorated eatery last week. My reaction to the birria-and-cheese taco ($6) was exactly the same. I dipped the fried shell stuffed with marinated birria meat, cheese, sauce and fresh herbs into the consommé, bit in and rolled my eyes heavenward.

SEE ALSO: My 5 Favorite Tacos on O‘ahu Right Now

Photo: Tracy Chan

Straight Outta Husk started with tamales and a desire to help the community, says Luevano, who runs the business with her husband Sam Luevano. Born in Tijuana and raised in California, she came to Hawai‘i in 2014 as a military wife. With Sam away on deployments, Luevano started making and selling tamales out of their home to a line of waiting customers; later she made them for the Institute for Human Services to help feed the homeless. Her recipes are from her grandmother, mother and other family members.

Photo: Tracy Chan

Luevano, who studied to be a medical radiologic technologist, was working in medicine but got laid off when COVID hit. With her husband’s blessing and participation, she switched to making food—and hasn’t looked back. “I could be out there in the medical field, working,” she says, “but even though this is so tiring, I love it.”

SEE ALSO: Find Rich, Savory Mole at These O‘ahu Mexican Restaurants

Now the Straight Outta Husk team is busy making tamales, burritos, tortas and birria tacos. Other standouts: horchata ($8 for 24 ounces), made with freshly ground cinnamon bark and a blend of spices. Tamales ($8.50) in your choice of meat or the vegetarian Anaheim pepper and cheese, topped with sauce, feta cheese and cilantro. Massive burritos on 13-inch tortillas ($18.50). Sauce-covered mole tacos—Luevano’s mole puts them on the sweeter, lighter side, “just like they tasted when I was growing up.”

Photo: Tracy Chan

Straight Outta Husk still caters open houses, birthday parties and other events. And Luevano has bigger goals. “I want to reach out to the community and eventually know all the ins and outs of business,” she says. “I want to be a stepping stone to the shelters and provide employment, teach people how to be entrepreneurs.”

Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., inside Palama Supermarket, 98-020 Kamehameha Hwy, (808) 765-1990, @straightouttahusk

Photo: Mari Taketa

“Wait outside! I call you when ready.” If you’ve been shooed out the door after paying for your order, you’ve been initiated at O‘ahu’s premier spot for roast duck. That was the overwhelming opinion when we asked our Frolic Foodies Facebook group for their best suggestions for this potluck favorite: 10 out of 18 people named Roast Duck Kitchen.

It wasn’t just the ratio of votes, which was 55.6% for the takeout counter in ‘Aiea. The immediacy of almost every response hinted at a passion. So the first chance we got, we drove out to confirm: succulent, tender flesh, richly lacquered skin and a balance of seasonings that let Chinese five-spice and salt complement the duck’s flavor without overtaking it. And this was by far the meatiest roast duck we’ve had in a long time.

Photo: Mari Taketa

SEE ALSO: We Compiled Your Top 5 Poke, Gau Gee, Meat Jun, Loco Moco

In this season of holiday potlucks, we’ll add that the next most-mentioned shop for roast duck was Chinatown’s Nam Fong, with three votes; other places scored one mention each. And word has it the roast pork at Roast Duck Kitchen is even better than the duck. If you’re a newbie, you’ll find Roast Duck Kitchen on the second level of ‘Aiea Shopping Center, to the left of McDonald’s. Chances are you won’t be able to see it from the parking lot, so head into the cul-de-sac at the end of the building, or take the escalator up from the lower level. You can’t miss the red-and-yellow signs.

$19 for a half-duck. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 99-115 Aiea Heights Drive, (808) 486-0005

Photo: Maria Burke

Despite our diverse dining scene, there are still a ton of cuisines that are underrepresented in Hawai‘i—Latinx food, for example. The good news is that new Latinx eateries have been appearing in recent years, including some that prove we’ve still barely scratched the surface. I’ve been a fan of Amanda Cordes’ farmers market ceviche tostadas since Da Seafood Cartel started popping up in Kailua and Kaka‘ako last year. But Cordes, whose mother is from Sonora, Mexico and whose father’s family owns Forty Niner Restaurant, hasn’t stopped there: Da Seafood Cartel recently opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in a converted old gas station in ‘Aiea.

SEE ALSO: Farmers Market Finds: Traditional Mexican Ceviche and Aguachile with a Local Twist

Photo: Maria Burke

At the farmers markets, Da Seafood Cartel sold Sonora-style ceviche tostadas and special-order party pans of aguachile, in this case scallops and shrimps tossed in seasoned chile water. My friend and I would go in on a pan and eat the whole thing. The new restaurant expands on the theme of northern Mexican seafood, offered in more than a dozen choices of quesadillas, tostadas and tacos. Here, aguachile arrives as a plate ($15.95) with raw shrimp, seeded cucumbers, red onion and a super tart sauce of lime juice, lime rinds, jalapeños and other magic. The shrimp’s sweet flesh balances well with the mouthwatering sauce, with toasty chips adding texture. This is always a must for me.

Photo: Maria Burke

Also on the menu is cocktail campechano ($29), a fishbowl glass filled with raw scallop, perfectly cooked octopus, raw salted mahi mahi and cooked shrimp topped with buttery avocado, red onions and an oyster. The Clamato tomato base is notable, and the heavy drizzle of the house Black Sauce of Death—a shoyu-vinegar sauce with a serious kick—adds a punch of umami. Pro tip: Eat the seafood, then pour your beer into the leftover sauce.

SEE ALSO: Find Tlaxcalli’s Homestyle Mexican Fare in the Heart of Chinatown

Photo: Maria Burke

People who warn against mixing seafood and cheese are proved wrong by the Gobernador de Camaron or shrimp quesadilla ($6). Plump shrimp kissed on the flat top are mixed with tomatoes, onions, jalapeños and lots of melted cheese; then the twin quesadillas are griddled on both sides. So simple, so tasty. This doesn’t need salsa, but you can ask for the Black Sauce of Death.

Photo: Maria Burke

La Torre, or the tower ($34), catches everyone’s eye when it arrives at our table. It’s a five-inch stack with every kind of raw and cooked seafood on the menu, drenched in spicy, salty sauces and served with a side of tostadas. If you’re rolling deep with a large group, this is a must.

At this Seafood Cartel, you can still get your favorite mixed ceviche tostada with blue crab tobiko spread, or even the spread on the side to put on all the things—your decisions are just harder now with so many more choices. My eating companion, a friend from Baja California in Mexico, looked on the verge of tears several times during our meal. Da Seafood Cartel doesn’t just help fill a gap in Latinx cuisine on the local scene. For those raised on this cuisine, it’s soul food.

Open daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 98-380 Kamehameha Hwy, (808) 762-0044, @daseafoodcartel

Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Dear Hearts,

How many friends will stick with you?
There’s many, when you are down, will say adieu.
So few will be there through thick and thin.
To them it doesn’t matter if you lose or win.
These are the friends to be truly treasured.
In words then cannot be measured.

Sincerely,

Shiro “Mistah Saimin”

Das one of da many life lesson poems that Franz Shiro Matsuo penned. He wen open up Shiro’s Saimin Haven first in ‘Aiea Bowl in 1969, den in 1971 he wen move to da current location at Waimalu Shopping Center. Get one noddah location now in ‘Ewa Beach too. Long time ago used to get all of Mr. Shiro’s poems written by hand all thumbtacked to da wall. Over time da paper came brown and da ink faded, but I always thought that wuz part of da charm. When dey remodeled dey printed out his poems with fancy backgrounds and put ‘em in picture frames. His words of wisdoms continue for inspire new generations of customers.

Da walls at Shiro’s get Shiro’s poems, saimin-themed artwork by local artists and old photos of Shiro and lotta da longtime customers. Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Shiro’s mission was for elevate saimin from one snack food to one complete meal in itself. It’s hard for comprehend now, but it says on top their website that Shiro wuz da firstest for introduce vegetables into saimin, not to mention all kine oddah toppings. Most famous is all his ethnic kine creations, like da No. 24 Filipino Saimin that comes with pork adobo, da No. 20 Chinese Saimin that comes with Chinese roast pork, and da No. 22 Korean Saimin that comes with barbecue short ribs and kim chee. And den get da saimins named aftah famous celebrities like da No. 55 da Ron Mizutani, da No. 57 da Jesus Salud, or da No. 59 da Joe Moore which comes with roast duck. (That one always puzzled me, like why not put duck in da Chinese Saimin? I guess Joe Moore loves duck!) So amazing how da staff knows all da ukuplanny numbers by heart.

Shiro’s Dodonpa. The Ultimate King of Saimins comes with 10 garnishes. Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Though Shiro’s stay known for having dozens upon dozens of different kine saimins, dey also serve all kine breakfast, lunch and dinner foods too. Dey get all da local staples like Hamburga Steak, Chicken Katsu, Pork Adobo, various Hawaiian Plates, and Loko Moko (yeah, he spells ’em li’dat). But why get one Loko Moko when you can get Shiro’s Deka Boko Loko Moko! Try say that 10 times fast. That one get CHREE hamburga patties, two eggs and gravy on rice.

SEE ALSO: Dis Is How Shiro’s Saimin Got Its Dry Mein On

How many hamburga patties get in Shiro’s Deka Boko Loko Moko?! Photo: Lee Tonouchi

I still love his playful wording that dey smartly decided for keep on top da menu. Like how Mr. Shiro wrote “Shiro’s Original Hula Hula Chicken (It’s Teriyakking Good!!)” or da “Chop Along Steak (Faster than Hop Along).” My favorite one is “Shiro’s Original Local Boy Beef Stew (With Meat Inside!!).” My faddah had to explain how Mr. Shiro wuz dissing da “beef” stews from oddah restaurants that hardly had any beef.

Still get Shiro’s poems on top da walls of Shiro’s Saimin Haven. Photo: Lee Tonouchi

My faddah wuz cool like Da Fonz whenever we went to Shiro’s. We went so often that da hostess knew he wanted da corner booth by da register or da booth by da kitchen. If we saw one red Pontiac Sunbird in da parking lot, that meant we wuz probably going see Mr. Shiro sitting on his stool eating at da counter, back when dey used to have one coffee counter.

Family legend has it that when we catered my two years old birthday party from Shiro’s, da food wuz delivered by Mr. Shiro himself. He happened for bring along his trusty ‘ukulele, so impromptu-kine when he found out wuz my birfday, he joyously sang Happy Birthday to me. My relatives stay so old dey no can remembah da names of half my cousins, but yet dey clearly remembah that day. Dey be all like, “Lee-boy, you no remembah? How come you no remembah?!!” Uh, cuz I wuz two.

We love da Crispy Pork Belly so much we bring ’em to potlucks. But den everybody started copying us. Das bite, brah. Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Nowdays, like how my faddah used to bring me, I bring my childrens for eat at Shiro’s. My family’s faves include saimin of course (Shiro’s makes their own noodles in their own factory and their dashi stay supa ono), da Country Fried Noodles, and da deep-fried Crispy Pork Belly with Shiro’s Ponzu Sauce (dis one’s more new school).

SEE ALSO: You Voted: Here’s Your Top 5 Saimin Spots on O‘ahu

Local Boy Beef Stew + Potato Mac Salad = Winnahs! Photo: Lee Tonouchi

My personal favorite has always been their Local Boy Beef Stew, as one side order Stew Bowl with Rice, cuz you get more stew that way. An’den I get one side order of da Potato Mac Salad. On top da website it says Shiro’s wuz da first for use spaghetti noodles in his potato-mac salad. I wondah how come he nevah use saimin noodles, yeah? It’s so good that I even know people who go dea special on their way home from work for order takeout of JUST da potato-mac salad.

Da Shiro’s Original: Two scrambled eggs mixed with shoyu, green onions and dashi along with your choice of meat and starch. Photo: Lee Tonouchi

Da third generation of Shiro’s family stay running Shiro’s now. His grandson Bryce Fujimoto wen take over da operations and da penning of new poetry. He signs his poems as “Saimin Jr.” When we had our keiki’s two-year-old birthday party it wuz very important to me that we got da catering from Shiro’s. I wuz quite impressed when Saimin Jr. himself delivered da food. I know Mr. Shiro would’ve been proud.

So I told Saimin Jr. about how his grandfaddah sang Happy Birthday to me when I wuz two an’den how now my keiki wuz turning two. I wuz hoping maybe da grandson might provide us with some musical entertainments, but he just laughed and said “Yup, sounds like Grandpa.”

And with that story I leave you with some very important numbers. (808) 488-8824: Das da number for Shiro’s Restaurant and Catering. (808) 488-4834: Das da number for Shiro’s Waimalu Takeout.

And dis last number stay for Saimin Jr. (808) 732-3739: Das da phone numbah for Roy Sakuma ‘Ukulele Studios. I mean, you only gotta learn how play ONE song!

Multiple locations, shiros-saimin.com, @shirossaimin

SEE ALSO:

Old-School Diners We Love: Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop in Waimalu
Old-School Diners We Love: Harry’s Café in Kaka‘ako

Photo: Eric Baranda

I’ve wondered why there’s a Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop in Waimalu Shopping Center. Now that I live on the Leeward side, I pass it all the time. What’s a coffee shop named Kapi‘olani doing in ‘Aiea? I knew I had to investigate. And of course I had to eat here.

Photo: Eric Baranda

My first visit, I get the famous oxtail soup ($17.99 for a mini). I’m pretty sure it’s subliminal messaging. The sign above the door says Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop is “The Home of the Famous Oxtail Soup.” The menu agrees. It says they’ve been “Serving Hawai‘i’s Best Oxtail Soup Since 1949.” It’s delicious. A clean broth, with cilantro adding a fresh taste. Tender meat falling off the bone. No other toppings are needed. There are only three pieces of meat in the mini size. Maybe we’ll get the regular size next time.

Photo: Eric Baranda

My investigation reveals that the recipe is old. The original Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop opened where the Hawai’i Convention Center now resides. Over the years, the shop became famous for its oxtail soup. In contests, it beat other oxtail luminaries of the time, such as Stadium Bowl-O-Drome and Wailana Coffee House.

SEE ALSO: Old-School Diners We Love: Harry’s Café in Kaka‘ako

Photo: Eric Baranda

I have to admit, it makes me feel better that the mystery of the name is no longer a mystery. For me, anyway. I’m sure many old-timers know the story. As will oxtail soup connoisseurs. Bowling fans may know that after it moved, Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop next resided in Kam Bowl. At the time, Kam Bowl was the bowling alley next to Kamehameha Shopping Center in Kalihi. When the bowling alley closed in 2007, Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop had to move.

Photo: Eric Baranda

Sweet and sour spare ribs. Tripe stew. Hot roast turkey sandwich with garlic mashed potatoes. Chop steak. And breakfast served all day. Now Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop resides in ‘Aiea. Although far in time and distance from the original location, the menu still carries the history from way back when.

Photo: Eric Baranda

For me, diners are all about nostalgia and comfort. So we order their chicken katsu curry ($13). This was a favorite of mine back in college, but I haven’t had it in a long while. It gives me that sense of home that comes when you’re eating comfort food. Flavorful gravy with bits of carrot and onion. Slathered over hot and steamy rice. The silky gravy texture followed by the katsu crunch. Juicy chicken morsels. There are no leftovers to take home.

Photo: Eric Baranda

Cheeseburgers are also high on my list of comfort foods. And at $5.25, the price here is right. I wish I knew about this one years ago. It would’ve been a contender for Our Top 5: Old-school comfort cheeseburgers. A lightly toasted bun, savory burger patty, hot gooey melted American cheese. I’m not a fan of veggies. So it says a lot that for me, the shredded lettuce doesn’t detract from the experience.

SEE ALSO: Our Top 5: Old-School Comfort Cheeseburgers

Now my hunger and my curiosity are satisfied. I can still see why customers keep coming back. Kapi‘olani Coffee Shop’s reassuring combination of comfort food and nostalgia. And that famous oxtail soup.

Photo: Eric Baranda

98-020 Kamehameha Highway, (808) 488-7708

Photo courtesy of Pixabay

Oompah! It’s the time of year when the brews flow, polka dancing comes back in style, and German lederhosen and dirndls (that skirt, bodice and apron outfit) can be found, even here in Hawai‘i.

Oktoberfest officially runs from Saturday, Sept. 17 to Monday, Oct. 3 this year. Two major Oktoberfest parties are happening in Honolulu, though they may not be the only ones. The first is this Saturday at Salt in Our Kaka‘ako, centered around Village Bottle Shop & Tasting Room. The second is a big to-do at Aloha Stadium on Saturday, Sept. 24, run by Free Spirits Hawai‘i.

SEE ALSO: Beer Festivals Start Returning to Hawai‘i Next Week

Here’s the breakdown of both events:

Oktoberfest 2022 at Salt Kaka‘ako

The free-admission Oktoberfest festivities in Kaka‘ako’s SALT complex include special Oktoberfest sausages and warm pretzels by Butcher & Bird, live German music by the always-fun Ompah Trio, giveaways, and a stein-hoisting competition sponsored by Samuel Adams. Wander the Beer Hall in The Barn to taste some authentic German festival beers, or head inside Village Bottle Shop & Tasting Room to take advantage of beer stations featuring nine German Oktoberfest beers:

• Spaten Oktoberfestbier
• Hofbräu Oktoberfest
• Paulaner Festbier
• Schonramer Gold Fest
• Weihenstephaner Festbier
• Ayinger Oktober Fest-Märzen
• Firestone Walker Oaktoberfest Oak-Aged Lager
• Samuel Adams Octoberfest
• Golden Road Oktoberfest Bier

Admission is free. Must be 21 or older to drink.

675 Auahi St., Sept. 17 from 3 to 9 p.m., villagebeerhawaii.com/events/2022/9/17/oktoberfest-2022-at-salt

Oktoberfest Hawai‘i at Aloha Stadium

More than 15 German style beers will be on tap, including exclusive brews from Honolulu Beerworks, at this event by bar-centric catering company Free Spirits Hawai‘i. You can also check out local food vendors, grab a custom beer stein, dance the polka to live music, play oversize outdoor games and more. Buy tickets in three 3-hour windows between 12:15 and 9 p.m., and enter during your assigned window (but you can stay after the designated time). Tickets come in several tiers and include a 5-ounce tasting mug and a variable number of drink tickets.

99-500 Salt Lake Blvd., Sept. 24 from 12 to 9 p.m., oktoberfesthawaii.com, @oktoberfesthawaii

Kailua Fall Festival

Back in person for the first time since 2019, this community event takes over Ho‘olai Street with live music, yard games and digital games with prizes, 60-plus vendors and four local bars: the Pub Kailua, Kalapawai Market, The Boardroom, and Maile’s Stage Bar. Buy a 22-ounce stein to purchase what are being billed as Oktoberfest beers at any of these bars. Go to Kailua Fall Festival’s Facebook page 

kailuaevents.com, @eventskailua

Local breweries and pubs serving Oktoberfest beers or food

Honolulu Beerworks

328 Cooke St., (808) 589-2337, honolulubeerworks.com, @honolulubeer

Hana Koa Brewing Co.

962 Kawaiahao St., hanakoabrewing.com, @hanakoabrewing

Lōkahi Brewing Co.

1160 S King St., (808) 866-8323, @lokahibrewing

Maui Brewing Co.

Multiple locations, mauibrewingco.com, @mauibrewingco

Aloha Beer Co.

Multiple locations, alohabeer.com, @alohabeerco

Broken Boundary Brewery

740 Mo‘owa‘a St., (808) 888-2404, brokenboundarybrewery.com, @brokenboundary808

Lanikai Brewing Co.

167 Hamakua Dr., lanikaibrewing.com, @lanikaibrewing

Grace in Growlers

143 Hekili St., @graceingrowlers

Brunch is one of the best reasons to wake up on a Sunday morning. Eggs, waffles, mimosas and coffee—all in one place—will get anyone out of bed. And while beer and brunch aren’t a normal pairing, I love the unexpected twist of a bustling brewery opening up on a sunny Sunday morning to flip some pancakes. Follow me as I check out weekend brunch at five of my favorite breweries around Honolulu.

SEE ALSO: Chinatown’s Smith & Kings Has a Worthy Weekend Bar Brunch

Weekend 1: The Hall by Beer Lab

Photo: Kristi Tolentino

My first stop is The Hall by Beer Lab, nestled below Ross Dress for Less at Pearlridge Center just steps from the parking lot. The setup is casual: You choose your own seat at one of the picnic tables. I like it, even if the tables are not the most comfortable. Even better, while Pearlridge is the only one of Beer Lab’s three locations serving brunch, it’s served every day of the week. The menu is by Sistah Truck, which also serves up lunch and dinner here, and has enough options that make it hard to narrow down.

I go with the banana crème brulée french toast ($14) I’ve seen on Instagram, and it does not disappoint. The flavors are exactly what you would expect from the name, and no syrup is needed. Also a highlight is the kim chee fried rice ($9) with bacon; it comes topped with a Peterson’s Farm egg from Wahiawā. With a subtle spice, this dish delivers the salty balance I’m looking for. I tell myself the kombucha cocktail ($10), which is spiked with a shot of vodka, is healthy and guzzle it down! Next time I might opt for coffee—aside from the usual iced latte and cold brewed coffee, they have an iced chai tea latte and an iced matcha latte, all favorites of mine. Choices, choices!

Brunch daily from 8 to 11 a.m., 98-1005 Moanalua Road, #884, (808) 762-0027, beerlabhi.com, @beerlabhi

Weekend 2: Hana Koa Brewing Co.

Photo: Kristi Tolentino

Week 2 of my brewery brunch route takes me to an eclectic stretch of Kaka‘ako. Sunday brunch at Hana Koa, a popular spot on Kawaiahaʻo Street across from the Rice Factory, goes from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. I’ve only seen this space packed with beer drinkers in the afternoon and evening, so today I don’t recognize it. The mid-morning sun casts a warm glow over the tables, creating a peaceful vibe I love. The menu is small, which is a bit disappointing to someone who loves Hana Koa’s bigger dinner menu and themed specials. The pastrami benedict ($14) is not your typical brunch item. The pastrami is lean and not as salty as Spam and bacon; it pairs well with hollandaise sauce. I think more places should consider serving this. The classic loco moco ($14) comes with a patty that’s a bit on the tough side but is topped with a Texas brisket drippings gravy that is thick, rich and oh-so satisfying.

As for drinks, both the Dole Whip mimosa ($10) and a grapefruit mimosa ($8) are delicious, though on the smaller side. The first is a blend of pineapple, papaya, banana and coconut with sparkling wine and a creamy finish, while the grapefruit mimosa packs a puckery-tart punch and while not sweet, still feels like a treat. I can drink six of these on a good day. Overall, the brunch atmosphere is great, but I prefer the dinnertime offerings.

Brunch Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 962 Kawaiaha‘o St., (808) 591-2337, hanakoabrewing.com, @hanakoabrewing

SEE ALSO: Keep Your Spirits Up at Hana Koa Brewing Co.’s Mezzanine Bar

Weekend 3: Lōkahi Brewing Co.

Photo: Kristi Tolentino

I’m surprised by how much I’ve come to like the space at one of the newer breweries in town. Lōkahi Brewing opened last year in the old Precision Radio building on South King Street and takes full advantage of its high-ceiling mezzanine layout. Most regulars sit at the bar, but those who want some seclusion opt for the small section of upstairs seating that overlooks the main floor. The tables next to the window are my favorite because they catch a lot of natural light. It’s a cozy space, but they’ve made it work.

Although messy, I enjoy the huevos rancheros ($18) mashup of ranchero sauce, runny eggs and Lōkahi’s crispy potatoes. The potatoes are a must-have: Light and crispy, they put most others to shame. The PLT: Portuguese Sausage Breakfast Sliders ($13) are simple and surprisingly tasty with the house Sriracha aioli. Since this brunch happens a bit later in the day, I’m comfortable opting for the BEERmosa, a concoction of sparkling wine with a Lōkahi sour beer of your choice. The beer takes the flavor lead, but I detect a slightly sweeter finish. Next time I hope to try one of their sweet menu items.

Brunch Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 1160 S. King St. Unit B, (808) 866-8323, qrmenu.com/menus/lokahi-brewing-company, @lokahibrewing

Weekend 4: Aloha Beer Co. in Kaka‘ako

Photo: Kristi Tolentino

Weekend 4 and I’m back in Kaka‘ako, the city’s brewery district, this time on Queen Street. The open-air bar and dining area and expansive outdoor seating at Aloha Beer’s flagship location cannot be beat, especially when it’s dog friendly. They have picnic-style and high-top tables, all spaced out so dogs can comfortably lie down. I swear there’s always a pup around. No complaints here! The brunch menu has interesting options and dog-friendly meals including Bibim-pups with chicken breast and veggies. The cocktails are right up my alley. The layered and photogenic wine down sour ($15) is light, letting the flavor of the wine come through. Honey and egg whites make it creamy and balance the cabernet. I prefer the Aloha Bramble ($13). It’s a bit tart, with fruity elements that brighten it up—good on a very hot day.

The Cajun sausage flatbread ($13) is one of my faves (it’s fun to have a loaded pizza for breakfast). A variety of textures from crunchy bell peppers to fluffy eggs and meaty sausage make it fun to eat. This one should be shared. The star of the show is the deep-fried french toast ($13), whose custard cream and Nutella make for an indulgent duo lightened by strawberries. The bread is thick and drenched in all these toppings, so beware, it might get messy. Order this to share too, as it will induce a food coma. And prepare to roll out of there!

Brunch Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., 700 Queen St., (808) 544-1605, alohabeer.com, @alohabeerco

SEE ALSO: Bone Appétit! These 15 Honolulu Eateries Have Special Menus for Dogs

Weekend 5: Waikīkī Brewing Co.

Photo: Kristi Tolentino

The last weekend of my brunch journey leads me to a brewery I’ve never been to. Waikiki Brewing has been on my to-try list for as long as I can remember, so I’m excited to finally stop in. On weekend mornings it’s relatively peaceful. This brewpub is also dog-friendly, offering a Fido Moco with chopped local beef and egg. The Irish coffee ($10) is served hot and tastes more of Jameson Irish Whiskey than Lion Coffee. It burns my throat in more ways than one. I think I might like an iced version, if that’s possible?

The smothered breakfast burrito ($18) calls my name and leaves me with no regrets. It’s as salty and meaty as it sounds, with generous chunks of ham, bacon and pulled pork; salsa and onions add freshness into this monster of a burrito. The sausage country gravy is silky with some chunks. This dish would be an amazing hangover meal. The avocado bennie ($14) lets me get some green in and is good if you want a lighter start to the day. The creaminess of avocado and poached egg are livened by fresh tomato. I love that the dish swaps out the usual english muffin for a piece of toasted focaccia, which adds a bit of crunch. Why don’t more places opt for this? I can’t wait to visit again!

Brunch Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 831 Queen St., (808) 591-0387, waikikibrewing.com, @waikikibrewco

If there’s an okazuya around, Kristi Tolentino will make room in her stomach. She’s the go-to friend for food recommendations, the one who always wants you to send a photo of what you’re eating. Don’t see her in line at the okazuya? Chances are she’s hopping around coffee shops or planning her next trip.