430 PKWY

Kaka‘ako

A speakeasy cocktail bar and lounge from Chris Kajioka is planned for the Waimanu-Pi‘ikoi corner of Kaka‘ako, already home to Tempura Ichika, Sushi Gyoshin and Hangang Korean Grill House. Look out for opening details in December.

430 Pi‘ikoi St., @430_pkwy

Amaterasu

Ala Moana

Frolic’s editors have been fond of Hideo Ohmiya’s thoughtful sushi omakase since he opened his first counter at Artizen inside the Velocity luxury car showroom. Since Amaterasu closed in April, we’ve kept our ears to the ground for when and where it would reappear. Amaterasu’s first brick-and-mortar opened yesterday, Nov. 20, one floor below Ala Moana Center’s Lanai food court near Macy’s. Soft-opening price is $100 a person; reserve on OpenTable.

1450 Ala Moana Blvd., @amaterasushi808

SEE ALSO: Amaterasu, the City’s Newest Sushi Omakase, Is in a Car Showroom

Big Island Burger

Waikīkī

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Jeff Carzino’s Big Island beef burgers are now in Waikīkī. Carzino’s Ultimate Burger in Kailua-Kona is popular for its commitment to local ingredients, 100% grass-fed Big Island beef and fresh-cut fries. On O‘ahu, I’m told there will be plant-based options, a 10% kama‘āina discount and parking validation with a minimum spend. Find this in Waikīkī Shopping Plaza on the street level.

2250 Kalākaua Ave. #102, @bigisland.burger

Faria

Kailua

Photo: Courtesy of Faria

Faria bills itself as a Pasifika Portuguese restaurant that, when it opens in early December, will pay homage to Hawai‘i’s Portuguese immigrants and their descendants. Recipes from co-owner Kawehi Haug’s family include alcatra con purê de batata, an Azorean pot roast stew; and pulvo á lagareiro, seared octopus with potatoes and sausage. I’m looking forward to the Butter Mochi Amendoa, Haug’s riff on bolo de arroz (rice flour cake) and butter mochi with an almond float topping.

305 Ku‘ulei Road, fariahawaii.com, @fariahawaii

Favorite Son

Waikīkī

Favorite Son has a lot going for it. Offerings at this deli-meets-diner on the ground floor of the Romer Waikīkī start with breakfast and continue through the day with toasted hoagies, Detroit-style pizza, salads, protein bowls and cocktails too. The bright, airy space is on the quieter ‘Ewa end of Waikīkī.

2040 Kūhiō Ave., romerhotels.com, @favoritesonwaikiki

Gecko Girlz Shave Ice

Diamond Head

Photo: Thomas Obungen

There can never be too many shave ice shops in Hawai‘i. Gecko Girlz proves my point, bringing its vibrantly hued creations and syrups from Kona to a location near Diamond Head. The Kona Sunset with vanilla ice cream, liliko‘i and lychee syrups, liliko‘i puree, coconut cream snow cap and mochi is an especially sweet signature item, but you can also craft your own.

3045 Monsarrat Ave., geckogirlz.com, @geckogirlzshaveice

Honolulu Bagel Co.

Downtown

With the recipes and baker from now-shuttered Lox of Bagels on board, Honolulu Bagel has opened Downtown on the Pauahi Street portion of Fort Street Mall. Daily bagel selections, schmears and a roster of sandwiches round out a menu that will also bring back the schmear-stuffed Bagel Bombs.

73 S. Pauahi St., @honolulubagelcompany

Gohan

Makiki

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Honolulu’s first made-to-order musubi and hand roll bar brings new excitement to this stretch of South King Street. Gohan pairs fluffy, freshly milled Tsuyahime rice with crisp Ariake nori to make excellent rice balls and hand rolls with classic and inspired toppings. The tonjiru pork miso soup and tsukemono pickles are also worth trying. Grab-and-go options are available, but dine at the counter for the best experience.

1314 S. King St., @gohan.hawaii

SEE ALSO: Gohan Is Honolulu’s First Craft Musubi Bar, and It Just Opened in Makiki

Harumi

Waikīkī

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Waikīkī’s newest izakaya offers a broad menu of Japanese classics: sushi rolls, nigiri, yakitori and tempura. Menu items that stand out: fava bean tempura ($6.95), beef and pineapple kushiyaki ($3.95) and Hawaiian-style oxtail soup ($11.95). If you’re game to brave Waikīkī parking, Harumi looks like it might be a fun joint to start the night.

339 Royal Hawaiian Ave., @harumi_waikiki

SEE ALSO: Where to Park in Waikīkī

Lady Elaine

Mānoa

Lady Elaine, the second Mānoa Marketplace restaurant by Dusty Grable’s Lovers + Fighters group, is expected to open in December. Grable says menu items will range from Southern Italian and Sicilian to dishes with Moroccan, Provençal and Lebanese influences. The restaurant will have indoor and outdoor seating and a large by-the-glass wine program, which I am especially looking forward to.

2752 Woodlawn Dr.

SEE ALSO: The Hospitalitarian: Dusty Grable Is the 2024 Restaurateur of the Year

Mille Fête

Chinatown

Photo: Sean Marrs

James Beard Award-winning chef Robynne Maii is putting the final touches on her new Chinatown bakery-café with pastry chef Katherine Yang of Gigi Blue in New York. Expect sandwiches, ice cream, baked goods, cakes and other confections from these two powerhouse chefs. The opening was planned for December but it’s looking more like January 2025.

1113 Smith St., @millefete

Please Come Again

Kailua

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Ube crunch. Rose lychee. Shiso mint chip. These are some of the 16 ice cream flavors lingering on the brain after a visit to Please Come Again, a craft parlor that opened in early November in Kailua. As the name suggests, we will be coming again and again to try more whimsical ice creams and sorbets.

322 Ku‘ulei Road, @pleasecomeagainhawaii

SEE ALSO: Sweet Treats: Kailua’s New Ice Cream Parlor Has One Request

Tonkatsu Kuro

Kaka‘ako

Expect cold soba and premium kurobuta pork tonkatsu combination sets from Tonkatsu Kuro, which is slated to open in coming weeks in the space on the corner of Halekauwila Street and Robinson Lane, kitty corner from Rinka.

1000 Auahi St., @tonkatsu.kuro.hi

Youpo Noodles

Chinatown

Photo: Thomas Obungen

After a brief experiment with Nasi Lemak, a farmers market stall with a focus on Malaysia’s national dish, Andrew Pressler is bringing back the hand-pulled biang biang mien that was the original star of his operation. The super chewy, spicy noodles get their flavoring from scalding hot oil hitting the herbs and spices in an aromatic flash. This time, however, Youpo Noodles has graduated from the farmers markets to its first brick-and-mortar spot in Chinatown. It’ll be closed Thanksgiving week and back in operation the first week of December.

1109 Maunakea St., @youponoodleshi

SEE ALSO: Find Fresh, Spicy, Hand-Pulled Noodle Bowls at These O‘ahu Farmers Markets

Photo: Melisssa Chang

You all remember the rise of the birria trend, right? If not, you must have been locked at home during some kind of pandemic.

Birria is a Mexican dish of meat stewed in a broth, or consommé. The broth is used to flavor the tortillas for birria tacos, then served alongside the tacos for dipping. Variations made their way through Mexico to Tijuana, where the tacos were served with cheese, and then over the border in 2010. By late 2020, birria tacos had become a craze across the U.S.

Arturo Silva, who is from Mexico City and was the opening chef at Buho Cocina y Cantina, created his own recipe and started a birria truck with Justin Mizufuka. They weren’t just the first in Hawai‘i to jump on the trend, they were making it with a high level of authenticity.

Co-owners Justin Mizufuka, Arturo Silva; at right, manager Ty Yamada. Photo: Melisssa Chang

Four years later, they’re one of the few birria spots still standing, with a line at their Pearlridge truck on any given day. And today, they’re opening their first brick-and-mortar on Fort Street Mall.

They’re staying true to form and serving just a few birria-centric items: birria tacos (3 for $13, with consommé, of course); Hellfire tacos (2 for $14, same tacos, but with a crazy heat level due to a ghost pepper blend); and birria ramen ($14), a local twist whose broth is made with the consommé. Another fun twist is called “Mexican roulette,” which is a box of 11 queso tacos and one hidden hellfire taco.

Photo: Melisssa Chang

You can also order a side of ramen noodles to use up the consommé from the tacos or just the consommé. Silva recently created his version of chile pepper water using jalapeños, and I drizzled it on everything, especially the ramen.

Silva’s birria has a rich, complex flavor. I have brought boxes of tacos to events (a dozen for $58), and people have loved them (with or without consommé).

SEE ALSO: Paris Baguette Is the Latest. Here’s What Else Has Opened Downtown

You can’t have tacos without horchata, and La Birria has three: regular, cold brew, and strawberry—which is deliciously malty and perfect with the Hellfire tacos. The agua fresca is much lighter. Both drinks are $5.

La Birria’s new Downtown restaurant is near Scarlet Honolulu on Fort Street Mall.

Open Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays 8:30 p.m. to 2:30 a.m., 1148 Fort St. Mall, (808) 888-0900, @la_birria_hi

Photo: Courtesy of Jennifer Akiyoshi

The nightmare on King Street began in the late evening hours of Wednesday, June 12. A cascade of events damaged underground cables that feed power to Downtown Honolulu, overloading Hawaiian Electric Co.’s Iwilei substation and cutting off power the next morning to Downtown, Chinatown and across The Capitol District. By noon, people were being sent home in droves as crews worked to restore power, which remained out most of the day.

Four days later, a fire on Monday night damaged more underground cables in several locations throughout Downtown and Chinatown. Again, whole city blocks and pockets of buildings, including 1000 Bishop St., where Frolic’s parent company is headquartered, sat in darkness. Businesses were forced to close again, without a solid timeline from HECO about when power would be restored. All have lost sales, many have lost inventories of perishable food and workers have lost wages.

Business insurance will help, but it won’t cover the cost of time lost preparing food. With paperwork and red tape involved in filing a claim and getting it approved, restaurants are likely months from seeing any relief. Businesses that have experienced a loss are encouraged to document everything and file a claim with HECO, once the damages have been assessed within 30 days of the incident.

What can you do to help?

A community walk planned this Saturday from 9 to 11 a.m. by Chinatown Neighborhood Board chair Ernest Caravalho and Honolulu City Councilmember Tyler Dos Santos-Tam aims to “bring positive attention to the Downtown-Chinatown area and generate interest in local businesses.” It will start at the new Inspiration Hawai‘i Museum at 900 Richards Street and stop at various spots in Downtown and Chinatown, highlighting various improvements made to the area.

Black Shamrock Tavern posted this plea on its Instagram:

“With (so far) three days of lost business in the last week due to two different power outages, the bars, restaurants, and shops in Chinatown have taken a hit. We ask you to come out this weekend to support our little community. Bring your friends and family to enjoy a meal, have a drink, buy a lei, do some shopping, take in some art, etc. at your favorite spots in Chinatown. Every visit helps our local businesses continue to thrive. Chinatown nō ka ‘oi.”

Downtown eateries were affected as well. Here’s who lost power this past week, along with comments sent to us or reposted from their Instagrams:

Asato Family Shop

“We will be checking all our stock to see what melted and needs to be donated away. Thank you so much to everyone who reached out to us to offer a helping hand. We feel so supported by our amazing community! We’ll be back to 100% and open on Sunday!!

“Unfortunately some of our friends down the street are still without power… Please go out and support the ones open trying their best to keep their doors open. We need to take care of each other when times are tough.” —Asato Family Instagram post

Ali‘i Coffee Co.

Baker Dudes

Bar 35

Black Shamrock Tavern

Bread House

Chi Kong Look Funn Factory

The Daley

Döner Shack Downtown

The Dragon Upstairs

Drip Studio HNL

“Since the outage began, we have faced significant challenges and losses: all of our food supplies have spoiled, unique coffee beans reserved and stored for our customers have been ruined, a substantial loss in sales, which is critical for our survival, especially as a small business. The commute back and forth to maintain our generator… is unstable and exhausting.” —Kelsie Mercado-Uehara, co-owner, Drip Studio

Duc’s Bistro

The Edge at 31 North

EP Bar

Fête

“Fête’s been open for eight and half years and maybe we’ve had [a power outage] once every other year, but never for this long. The level of communication from HECO needs to be clearer. I think about the loss of revenues, the loss of product and the loss of time. There’s a trickle-down effect to the small farmers and suppliers we work with that do not have orders from us to fill. I’m worried about the first-generation owners that will have a difficult time navigating the paperwork and red tape involved to get resolve from this ordeal.” —Chuck Bussler, co-owner, Fête

Fort Street Café

Ginger and Garlic

Giovedi

“Our employees, who depend on their paychecks and benefits to support themselves and their families, are the hardest hit. We’ve been forced to close for three days within the span of a single week. As a new restaurant that has been open for less than a month, this disruption is overwhelming. We are facing significant losses in revenue and perishable products. Not only have we lost all our raw ingredients, but we’ve also lost all the sauces and ragus that have taken countless hours to prepare. Much of the ingredients we use are from specialty purveyors that are not on the island, and even if power is restored by this evening, we will have to run a limited menu until we can restock our inventories.” —Bao Tran, chef and partner, Giovedi

Hawai‘i Dim Sum

HK Café

J Dolans

Jun Bo Chinese Restaurant

Kahiau Poke & Provisions

Lam’s Kitchen

Lee’s Bakery

The Lei Stand

Livestock Tavern

Local Joe

Lucky Belly

The Manifest

Maria Bonita Restaurant

Marugame Udon

McDonald’s

Morning Catch Poke

Murphy’s Bar & Grill

Nextdoor

The Nighthawk

Ocean Side Bakery

O’Kims Korean Kitchen

Obake

Ohana Dish

Olay’s Thai Lao Cuisine

The Other Side Diner

P27 Café

Paris Baguette

Pho Kim An

Pho Vietnam

Pho Que Huong

Pho To Chau

The Pig and the Lady

“This outage is not normal. Not for this period of time and my fear is this will continue more often with the rail construction coming in. It’s not ideal for the restaurants here to be without power for their food supply for days, let alone an hour. The ripple effect is real for the restaurants, employees and customers.” —Alex Le, co-owner, The Pig and the Lady

Pizza Mamo

Pō‘ai by Pono Potions

Proof Social Club

Rangoon Burmese Kitchen

Senia

Sing Cheong Yuan Bakery

“A tremendous thank you to all our employees, friends, family, loved ones, and community for the outpouring support and love during this time—reaching out to help, lending us refrigeration space and an oven to use, charging our battery packs at the substation, providing security, dropping off food and drinks, and the list goes on. Sorry for all the trouble this has caused each and every one of you but we really appreciate your patience as we try to navigate through this tough time.” —Sing Cheong Yuan Instagram post

Skull & Crown Trading Co.

Smith & Kings

Smith’s Union Bar

Subway

Sun Chong Grocery

“Day 3 and devastated to hear that we will not have power again today. We’re frustrated and tired but will still be open. We’re running off of 3 portable batteries that friends are helping us charge throughout the day. Please consider stopping by some businesses around us today! We heard some businesses who got power yesterday are out again today.

Thank you again for everyone that has helped us out tremendously already. We are so grateful for our community and will continue to extend out flash sale because we gotta keep the show going! Hilo Kaimana Lychee $7.99/LB!” – Sun Chong Grocery Instagram post

The Tchin Tchin! Bar

Tlaxcalli

Wing Ice Cream

“Sorry folks, won’t be open for the near future. Everything is melted.” —Wing Ice Cream Instagram post

Yakitori Hachibei

Yat Tung Chow Noodle Factory

YiFang Fruit Tea

Yong’s Kitchen

Editor’s Note: Add two new musubi specialists from Japan to Thomas Obungen’s list, originally published in the fall of 2022: Omusubi Fujimaru inside Waikīkī’s Mitsuwa Marketplace, with luxe toppings including wagyu, butterfish and scallops; and Nana Musubi, which returned to its old spot in the new Stix Asia food hall in January 2023 (yes, they still have tonjiru pork miso soup). Sadly, three musubi shops on the original list have since closed; another is relocating and will reopen this summer.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Onigiri, or musubi as we love to call them, are a dietary pillar for many of us on the go. The locals’ version of an energy bar, but way more fun and oishii, rice balls often add up to more than the sum of their parts. They’re the quick snack between meetings, a trip down memory lane or just a simple indulgence we don’t have to break the bank to enjoy. You can pick up musubi at convenience stores, supermarkets and okazuya delis, but here, we’re talking about specialists.

Musubi are so popular, O‘ahu is home to 11 shops dedicated to the craft of pairing freshly cooked rice with salty, pickled and sweet toppings and wrapping them up in nori. Here’s where we go for the best musubi in Honolulu.

Got’z Grindz

Photo: Maria Burke

Location: 45-726 Kamehameha Highway, Kāne‘ohe
Instagram: @gotzgrindz_gotzkitchen
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 6 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Musubi varieties: 40+
Price range: $1.95 to $5.25 each
Specialty: 20+ Spam musubi variations
My pick: Butter garlic corn musubi and red hot dog musubi

You have to be on the “right” side of Kamehameha Highway if you want to get to this Kāne‘ohe hidden gem. Got’z Grindz is worth the hassle, though, especially for their myriad musubi choices. The rice-to-topping ratio is ideal: You get more flavor in each bite. I also recommend picking up side dishes like garlic noodles, and the poke bowls are excellent.

SEE ALSO: Hidden Gem: Got’z Grindz Musubis in Kāne‘ohe

Higoto Japanese Eatery

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: 3221 Waialae Ave. # A4, Kaimukī
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. or sold out
Instagram: @higoto_japanese_eatery
Musubi varieties: 20 (10 types, with two rice options)
Price range: $2.60 to $2.95 each
Specialty: Large, filling musubi generously stuffed with toppings
Other menu items of note: Bento and donburi
My pick: Karaage chicken musubi and cheeseburger musubi

I’m always shocked by the line that forms outside Higoto Japanese Eatery in Kaimukī. Are there even enough parking stalls at this small shopping center? But every time I bite into a cheeseburger musubi, I’m reminded of why. These fistfuls of rice and generously portioned toppings are sublime and enough to fill a grown man in one go.

Komedokoro M’s

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: 438 Hobron Lane, Suite 107, Waikīkī
Hours: Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. or sold out
Instagram: @komedokoro.ms
Musubi varieties: 25
Price range: $2.69 to $4.25 each
Specialty: Musubi made with Tsuyahime rice that’s milled fresh in-store each day
Other menu items of note: Chicken karaage, Japanese beef curry and ‘ahi poke bowls
My pick: Spam and egg onigirazu, shiso with ume musubi and mentai-mayo musubi

In places like Waikīkī, especially the corner of Hobron Lane and Ena Road which many Japanese expats call home, it pays to go off the beaten path. I’m talking about Komedokoro M’s, a teensy musubi shop that teems with business from open to close. They use Tsuyahime rice from Yamagata, which comes in brown rice form and is milled fresh daily at Komedokoro. From the first bite to last, these are the musubi I dream about.

Mai Musubi

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Editor’s Note: Mai Musubi temporarily closed in May and will reopen at 614 Cooke St. in July 2024. The info below is from its former University location.

Instagram: @maimusubi
Musubi varieties: 25+
Price range: $2.55 to $3.75 each
Other menu items of note: Bento
My pick: Crunchy ume musubi and tuna mayo musubi

Mai recently relocated from Liliha to just off University Avenue in the former Bubbies Ice Cream shop. Loads of space, parking and a larger menu (with online ordering) are the results. The musubi keep well and are generous on toppings with a good ratio of rice to match. Reasonably priced bento and curry bowls are just as popular.

Mana Musubi (Mana Bu’s)

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: 1618 S. King St., McCully
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. or sold out
Instagram: @manamusubihi
Musubi varieties: 32
Specialty: Uniform musubi made with a wide variety of toppings with California and Japanese Koshihikari, pilaf and mixed-grain rice
Other menu items of note: Coffee jelly and custard pudding
My pick: Beef sukiyaki musubi with Japanese Koshihikari rice and chicken shiitake pilaf musubi

Manabu and Fumiyo Asaoka opened what was known as Mana Bu’s in 2008. If you’re looking for the OG musubi folks in Honolulu, they’re it—they literally wrote the book on musubi. Although they’ve explored third-party operators in the past, they returned to oversee operations in 2020 and increased the shop’s offerings and output. Mana Musubi is also the only musubi shop with staff in chef coats, which says all you need to know about these premium onigiri.

SEE ALSO: Best Fancy-Kine Spam Musubi: Our Top 5

Ma‘ona Musubi (closed)

Location: 921 Alakea St., Downtown; 1920 Ala Moana Blvd., Waikīkī; various farmers markets
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. or sold out
Instagram: @maonamusubi, @maonamusushi_express
Musubi varieties: 30
Price range: $1.55 to $2.50 each
Specialty: Onigirazu (rice sandwiches)
Other menu items of note: Donburi rice bowls

Onigirazu are large, square musubi that resemble sandwiches, only they’re made with rice. Ma‘ona sells onigirazu by the half, so you can get a variety of flavors without committing to a full one. It’s perfect to pick up before heading to the office Downtown, or you can find them at the Kapi‘olani Community College, Kaka‘ako and Pearlridge farmers markets. In early October, they expanded to Waikīkī at Inn on the Park, where they sell a limited selection of onigirazu.

Musubi Café Iyasume

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: 6 locations (Ala Moana to Kāhala)
Hours: Vary by location
Instagram: @musubi_cafe_iyasume
Musubi varieties: Varies
Specialty: Spam musubi in dozens of variations from shiso and ume to deluxe versions with avocado, bacon and shrimp tempura
Other menu items of note: Bento, tonjiru pork belly miso soup, fried chicken
My pick: Shiso Spam musubi, chicken karaage mayo onigiri, shrimp tempura roll

Another OG in the musubi game, Musubi Café Iyasume is likely the shop everyone knows best. With up to seven locations at one time, it is pretty much where most people get their onigiri. What I love most about Iyasume isn’t that you can find them from Kāhala to Ala Moana, but that they have the most options, best prices and are fairly consistent across the board. When I work at the mall, they’re my first choice and I always get the same thing: a shiso Spam musubi, a chicken karaage mayo musubi, potato salad and an Aloha Maid Iced Tea.

SEE ALSO: Iyasume Makes Up to 23 Kinds of Spam Musubi

Musubistro (closed)

Location: 61-676 Kamehameha Highway, Hale‘iwa
Hours: Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Instagram: @musubistro_
Musubi varieties: 3
Price range: $3 to $8 each
Specialty: Fresh-caught fish katsu musubi with teri sauce

Local, fresh-caught ‘ahi is filleted and turned into crispy blocks of katsu that Musubistro serves from a cute trailer outside Kawailoa Ranch. They also have the original Spam musubi, poke bowls and rotating specials. Truth be told, I haven’t had a chance to visit this musubi shop, but it’s first on my list the next time I’m in Hale‘iwa.

Palolo Factory pop-up at Fishcake (closed)

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: Fishcake, 307 Kamani St., Kaka‘ako
Hours: Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. or sold out
Instagram: @palolofactory
Musubi varieties: 8
Price range: $4 each
Specialty: Made-to-order musubi and sets with side dishes
Other menu items of note: Side dishes like potato salad and gobo kimpira
My Pick: Portuguese sausage musubi and tuna mayo musubi

When Palolo Factory began popping up in Kaka‘ako earlier this year, I wished that Hikari Takahashi and Kevin Kuroda were accepting adoption applications so they could feed me every day. I was only half-joking; you can get the same experience every Saturday at Fishcake. Takahashi, a self-taught home cook, delicately prepares musubi to order along with a trio of side dishes and miso soup while Kuroda tends to each table. They often travel, so it’s best to check their Instagram for updated menus and schedules.

SEE ALSO: Rotating Pop-Up Vendors at Fishcake Hook Us With New Delights

Paradise Poke

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: Nu‘uanu, Waikīkī, Pearl City, Hawai‘i Kai
Hours: Monday to Friday from 6 a.m. to sold out, Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to sold out
Instagram: @paradisepokehi
Musubi varieties: 8
Specialty: Salmon and ikura onigiri with crispy nori
Other menu items of note: Poke bowls, garlic shrimp plates and baked salmon
My pick: Goteborg musubi

There are two types of Paradise Poke customers: those who go for poke and plate lunches and the occasional boiled peanuts, and those who go straight for the morning onigiri. I’ve been both. Paradise is the slight exception to my criteria that these shops be musubi specialists—it lays out rows of onigiri every morning that are snatched up by folks on their way to work and school faster than you can say “poke.” This is also the only shop that serves onigiri with crispy nori, a huge standout if you ask me.

SEE ALSO: Garlic Shrimp, Musubi, Lemongrass Kalbi: There’s Way More than Fish at Paradise Poke

Pork Tamago Onigiri

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Location: Waikīkī Food Hall, 2301 Kalākaua Ave., Suite C311-C, Waikīkī
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Instagram: @pork_tamago_onigiri
Musubi varieties: 8
Price range: $5 to $8 each
Specialty: Okinawa-style Spam and egg rice sandwiches
Other menu items of note: Miso soup
My pick: Double shrimp PoTama and goya tempura PoTama

Affectionately known as PoTama, Pork Tamago Onigiri is an Okinawa-based chain of musubi shops specializing in Spam, egg and rice foldover sandwiches—whether for efficiency or aesthetics, I’ll never know. But, I do know that these are freaking delicious, especially when the Spam is slathered with sweet abura miso paste or layered with bitter melon and katsuobushi flakes to make a play on goya champuru. I’ve been to PoTama shops in Okinawa and Fukuoka to compare, and their local cousins are just as good.

SEE ALSO: Waikiki Food Hall grand opens at Royal Hawaiian Center

Photo: Mari Taketa

You don’t expect much from takeout sushi—not with a name like Aloha Bento, not when Aloha Bento is in a bank headquarters next to a Starbucks. Which makes its nigiri sushi all the more remarkable. It’s a combination of Edomae and more typical kaisen sushi, made by an itamae who co-owned Mō‘ili‘ili’s omakase Senyu Sushi.

Aloha Bento’s nigiri sets are lunchtime treats that line a cold case if you get to Central Pacific Plaza in Downtown early enough; otherwise, they’re made to order for online and walk-in customers. Standard sets come with 6, 8 or 10 pieces ($15, $18, $21) of kaisen sushi—the kind of fresh-off-the-boat or -plane stuff you find at most sushi bars and all conveyor belt and takeout sushi chains. They usually include ‘ahi, hamachi and salmon, which is good enough if you’re looking for a craft sushi lunch that won’t break the bank (ha!). I focus on the sushi because that’s what blows me away. For more about Aloha Bento’s larger menu of sashimi and sushi rolls that aren’t limited to lunchtime, keep scrolling.

Pau hana snack: Small sashimi plate and a sake flight. Photo: Mari Taketa

But if you’re into things like nodoguro or Moloka‘i amaebi or hamachi otoro or whatever is chef’s choice that day, go ahead and splurge on an 8-piece omakase ($27) or 8-piece premium omakase ($40) lunch set. Many of the pieces are lightly cured and aged using Edomae techniques to intensify the seafood’s natural flavors and harmonize them with vinegared sushi rice. For these sets, whose contents change frequently, Aloha Bento co-owner and sushi chef Cosmo Hirai flies in snow crab and hon maguro from Japan, blue prawns from New Caledonia, saba from Norway, king salmon from New Zealand. Other seafood including ‘ahi is sourced locally.

Premium omakase nigiri set on a recent weekday (clockwise from top left): otoro maguro bluefin tuna belly with nikiri shoyu, hamachi belly with jalapeño shoyu jelly and lime zest, king salmon belly seared with sweet miso, nodoguro blackthroat seaperch with lemon and dashi shoyu, kohada cured gizzard shad with nikiri shoyu and shiso, ika squid with white shoyu shiso and mentaiko, Hokkaido scallop with dashi salt and truffle purée, Hawaiian ama ebi with roasted shrimp shell salt. Photo: Mari Taketa

“We’re not a restaurant or anything, we are just a bento place. But there are customers who enjoy having omakase sets or premium sets. So I’ll bring in some fish so it can rotate and be a little bit different every week,” Hirai says. “At the same time, it’s not at the full omakase level that uses everything I’ve learned. It’s a more simplified level that I can offer to everybody. That’s the whole concept.”

SEE ALSO: Find Menchanko-Tei Favorites and Goma Ichi’s Ramen at Tonkatsu Sangi

Hirai studied Edomae techniques while making sushi at Kona Kai in Kaimukī, since closed, and eating his way through sushi bars around Japan. Wherever he could, he picked the brains of established itamae, including Sushi Sho’s Keiji Nakazawa, regarded as the king of Edomae in Japan, when he came to eat at Kona Kai. How did they cure saba or kohada? How did they adjust techniques to accommodate the qualities of Hawai‘i seafood?

Temaki hand rolls. Photo: Mari Taketa

Hirai’s other main job is as the third-generation bishop of Todaiji Hawai‘i temple in Nu‘uanu (which makes Aloha Bento’s Monday to Friday hours a perfect fit). The menu at the eatery, which he co-owns with entrepreneur Tyler Hiranaka, shifts at pau hana time to a focus on sashimi (market price), sushi rolls (from $9 for a California roll to $17 for a more elaborate one stuffed with shrimp tempura and topped with spicy ahi and tempura flakes), hand rolls (mostly $5, less for cucumber and ume, more for salmon skin or salmon and avocado) and items like hamachi kama.

Hosomaki skinny rolls: ume shiso ika (left, $7) and toro with takuan ($8). Photo: Mari Taketa

All the time, there are Aloha Beers, which formerly occupied Aloha Bento’s corner space next to Starbucks and accounts for the first part of its name; and a well-curated selection of sakes, including flights. Seating is at tables in the air-conditioned space or on the lānai fronting King Street. Parking in the Central Pacific Bank building is free with validation if you enter after 4 p.m.

Finally, Aloha Bento is open Monday and Tuesday this week and closed Wednesday to Friday for Thanksgiving. Regular hours are below.

Open Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (lunch menu until 2 p.m.), 220 S. King St., alohabento.com, @alohabentoco

Since Menchanko-Tei’s closure in January 2022, my food-loving heart has had a small void. I’ve been patiently waiting for the moment I could reunite with my first ramen love—Goma Ichi’s spicy, nutty tantan ramen, whose recipe Menchanko-Tei acquired—and of course Menchanko’s very own delectable tonkatsu.

That’s a survival story right there. Goma Ichi’s tantan was legendary. After the OG ramen shop closed in 2018, its recipes went to Menchanko-Tei, three blocks up Ke‘eaumoku Street. The closing of both eateries and so many restaurants along that strip was caused by new condo developments taking over their locations.

SEE ALSO: Where Are They Now? Restaurants from Ke‘eaumoku Street

Photo: Mahina Chong

But the ramen and tonkatsu live on. After operating from a food truck for a couple of years, the former Menchanko-Tei reopened as Tonkatsu Sangi last month in Downtown’s Pioneer Plaza. The menu is scaled back, but I’m thrilled they kept the dishes I ordered regularly: tonkatsu, ramen and nanban chicken. Combo sets help indecisive people like me who want to eat it all.

Photo: Mahina Chong

The tonkatsu plate with mini ramen combo ($19.95) is exactly what my heart has been missing. The aroma of the tantan broth reminds me of how much I longed for that rich and savory sesame taste. Two slurps in and I’m swooning from nostalgia.

Photo: Mahina Chong

The thick tonkatsu is fried to golden crisp perfection with the right amount of fat for that extra burst of juicy pork flavor. The panko doesn’t come from a bag—it’s La Tour’s shokupan white bread, pulverized. And you can’t grind your own sesame seeds, but these are sprinkled on your tonkatsu. All plates come with thinly shredded cabbage, Tamaki Gold rice, house-made ponzu vinaigrette dressing and katsu sauce. (Foodie tip: Dip your katsu in the vinaigrette for a flavor that hits different than the katsu sauce. You’re welcome.)

Photo: Mahina Chong

Sangi’s three choices of ramen—tantan ($13.50), sunghon ($13.50) and shoyu ($11.50)—are all served with Sun Noodles. Not only do I love having options, I really appreciate the step of separating the noodles from the broth to upkeep the chewy texture. The nanban chicken (a la carte or as a $15.95 plate) is packed with semi-sweet and savory flavors. If you’re looking for something extra, you can’t go wrong with the katsu curry ($18.50). Although you won’t find additional vegetables within, the curry is made from the ramen broth base.

Photo: Mahina Chong

The mother-and-son duo behind Tonkatsu Sangi, Yuko and Kei Yoshida, previously ran Menchanko-Tei. Although it was a franchise derived from Fukuoka, in my opinion, the best and most popular dishes were the Yoshidas’ creations and Goma Ichi’s ramen bowls. You will find them straight through the lobby toward the back of Pioneer Plaza, in the old Hughley Express spot. I highly suggest going early—I’m far from the only customer reuniting with my tantan, tonkatsu and nanban chicken loves.

Open Monday to Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. or until sold out, 900 Fort Street Mall Ste. 170, tonkatsusangi.com, @tonkatsu_sangi

Editor’s Note: This story was originally published on May 31, 2023, then updated as part of our October print issue.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

I tell people that I’m not a coffee snob. But even though I’m too lazy to get technical with brewing, I do savor a well-brewed cup, and I like that Drip Studio offers a happy medium. It doesn’t matter if you know everything or nothing about coffee: Co-owner Vincent Pōhaku will craft an experience that couples the beans he has with the optimal brewing style to release the flavors you’re after.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

In some ways, Drip Studio could be considered a normal coffee shop. It opened this year toward the mauka end of Fort Street Mall with high-top tables, a counter and a takeaway window where you can choose from several coffee options (except espresso), tea or a caffeine-free mocktail and be on your way. There’s a rotating selection of small-batch baked goods, too.

SEE ALSO: 3 New and Coming Eateries in Chinatown and Downtown Honolulu

In other ways, Drip Studio transcends most definitions of a coffee shop. With each visit, my appreciation for craft coffee grows, not only for the soothing taste and stimulating effects, but for the community of small roasters that Pōhaku and Kelsie Mercado-Uehara, the shop’s owners and life partners, are shining their light on. Pōhaku has been a coffee lover for most of his life. A carpenter by trade, when he was ready to hang up his tool belt, he knew his next step would be to create a space to share his passion for craft coffee.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

From the kitchen, Pōhaku engages with his customers. He keeps a coffee bible at hand that lists upward of 40 coffees from various roasters that he’s in contact with worldwide. A quick consult, and Pōhaku’s got a beverage to cure your craving. Pour-overs ($6.50) are the standard, but he can also make you a Japanese-style iced coffee ($6.50) or a Vietnamese pour-over ($7.50) with condensed milk. There are cold brews, standard ($4.50–$5) or charged with nitrogen gas ($5.50–$6.50), plus the tea and caffeine-free options ($3.50–$5.50).

This is where it can get a little nerdy. On each visit, I’ve tasted at least two coffees—including some made with beans from Rose Coffee Roasters of Switzerland, Portland Ca Phe in Oregon and White Nēnē Coffee Roasters on Hawai‘i Island, all champion roasters—brewed using different techniques that evoke distinctive flavors from the same beans.

And on a recent visit, I brought beans from Manu Coffee Roasters in Fukuoka, Japan. Pōhaku made me a cup using the Devil’s Brew method created by world champion brewer Tetsu Kasuya. It involves two processes that maximize flavor upfront and pull pure caffeine toward the end. The result is a luscious, full-bodied cup that’s not too hot to drink immediately. I shared my cup with a friend, and we were wired for the rest of the day.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

If you’re a sucker for iced coffees and drinks with cold foam, the Cold Fashioned with Foam ($8.50) is right up your alley. The cold brew is gussied up with maple syrup, orange bitters and a creamy cloud of citrus-scented foam and delivered like a proper cocktail. It dawns on me how much closer Drip Studio is to Bar Leather Apron than it is to The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

SEE ALSO: Try Coffee Is an Oasis in Kaka‘ako

The craft coffee shop is part of a third wave café culture that’s cresting in Honolulu right now. For decades, folks were happy waking up with Folgers in their cup. Then came the wave of triple skim lattés and blended mocha javaccinos in the ’90s and early aughts. In 2011, Eric Rose, a former Starbucks executive from its early days, opened Morning Glass Coffee + Café in sleepy Mānoa, one of the OG shops that started the local slow coffee movement. Now, at places like Drip Studio, The Curb and Bean About Town, everyday caffeine addicts are seeking out single origin pour-over coffees and asking about how the beans are grown and roasted.

“It’s really exciting to see people embrace and enjoy a scene that was once deemed pretentious or inaccessible,” says Mahina Akimoto-Reppun, Morning Glass’ co-owner and manager. “People would scoff at waiting five minutes for a coffee, whereas now people seem to understand that at most specialty shops, you’re getting an above average cup and that really great things take time and attention to detail.”

Photo: Thomas Obungen

At Drip Studio, Mercado-Uehara delicately arranges berries, mint and edible flowers on one of her ricotta toast creations ($12). Her baked goods entice from under glass cloches and jars: browned butter miso chocolate chip cookies, slices of citrus olive oil cake with orange zest glaze, and guava jelly bars. The menu also lists open-face sandwiches ($10), salads ($10) and other light fare.

Pōhaku, meanwhile, is working on turning the rest of Drip Studio into a coffee sanctuary. He describes it as a place where people will be able to explore rare roasts and obscure brewing techniques. It’s a place I’m eagerly waiting for.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., 1146 Fort Street Mall, dripstudiohnl.com, @dripstudiohnl

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Some things are worth the wait. I’d been seeing videos on my social media feed about a Jamaican food truck. More precisely, the videos showed the owner of Irie Jerk Hawai‘i describing the triumphs and tribulations of cooking jerk chicken and other specials from scratch. Like all good stories, the videos made me want to try the food, but since the truck was at Schofield Barracks, fate was not on my side. As luck would have it, it would only be a matter of time.

Two weeks ago, Irie Jerk opened its first brick-and-mortar location on Bishop Street in the Executive Centre. At last, chef and proprietor Kadeen Goldcamp has brought her cooking within my reach and that of throngs of hungry Downtowners.

SEE ALSO: Don’t Sleep on the Oxtail or Curried Goat at Jr’s Jamaican Jerk

My first visit starts with the fragrance of jerk spices wafting from the tiny restaurant. It is 1 p.m., and I am told they are already sold out of half the extensive menu. Apparently, a large lunch rush has just wiped them out. Jerk chicken wings with mac and cheese? Gone. Brown sauce chicken? Nope. Jerk pork? Maybe next time. Curry shrimp? Come back tomorrow.

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Undaunted, I press on and luck out with the oxtail stew with rice and peas ($23.99). Pillowy soft, the four oxtails are cooked to perfection with glistening jewels of collagen making every bite sticky and satisfying. Under the meat, a bed of flavorful rice and peas soaks up the gravy, compelling me to finish every grain. The ballet of complex, savory flavors finishes a little sweet with just a slight tickle of heat. A cup of ginger-pineapple-lemon ice tea ($4.50) refreshes my palate between moreish bites.

The next day, having learned my lesson, I arrive at 12:30 p.m. Most plates run about $13 to $18, with $12 sliders and sandwiches, sides like plantains and mac and cheese and assorted lemonades and smoothies. Takeout is your best option, as there are only two small tables. Today, my luck holds: I score a table as well as a jerk chicken leg quarter with rice and peas ($20).

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

The beautifully composed plate features succulent chicken nestled on a bed of rice and peas with a side of simmered cabbage and plantains. My first bite produces a reaction that only happens when the food is so good it catches me off-guard: I giggle. The chicken is so juicy and flavorful and the skin so perfectly rendered and caramelized from the marinade that I can’t help it. It’s like the best huli-huli chicken fresh off the grill, but with a bit more heat. My accompanying pineapple mint lemonade ($5) tastes of a tropical place that’s different from Hawai‘i.

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

When I gushingly tell Goldcamp how much I love the chicken, she insists I taste her curried goat with coconut rice because, in her words, “Jamaicans love eating curry and white rice.” Who doesn’t? Toothsome and packed with flavor, blanketed on a delicate coconut perfumed rice, the curried goat ends up being my favorite dish. When all is said and done, I sit with a happy belly, scotch bonnets dancing on my tongue and grains of rice stuck to my face.

I talk story with Goldcamp and learn that she is the chief cook behind every dish and marinade. She sources locally what she can, cooks from scratch and not cans and starts her day at 4 a.m. Not only that, she still also has the Irie Jerk truck, which still parks at Schofield. Every dish I’ve tried reflects this dedication and passion. Combined with what I know from Goldcamp’s videos, I feel as though I’m eating in the chef’s kitchen, with the food being cooked just for me.

I recommend you go early, before the most popular dishes sell out. If they do sell out, try again the next day. Some things are worth the wait.

Open Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday from noon to 7 p.m., 1088 Bishop St., Suite 101, iriejerkhi.com, @iriejerkhawaii

Photo: Martha Cheng

Bar Leather Apron, the bar that brought world-class cocktails and cocktail culture to Downtown Honolulu, became the first Hawai‘i entity to win a national James Beard Award when it was named Outstanding Bar at the awards ceremony in Chicago on Monday. Five bars from around the country made the finals from an initial list of 20 semi-finalists.

Tom Park and mixologist Justin Park, the owners of Bar Leather Apron, were in the audience and accepted the award. Justin Park gave a shoutout to the other four finalists, “all our friends’ bars who equally deserve this award”: Drastic Measures of Shawnee, Georgia; Garagiste of Las Vegas; La Ramblas of Brownsville, Texas; and Rob Roy of Seattle.

Screenshot from Eater.com livestream of James Beard award ceremony

“When we started Bar Leather Apron seven-plus years ago, we didn’t do it to chase any awards or anything like that. We just wanted to show and share with the world along with our friends in the industry that our small island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean could do something special,” Justin Park said from the awards stage.

“We put our heads down and did what we did, and with the help of our friends and family, all of our guests and supporters, [we showed] everyone back home in Hawai‘i, the keiki and anyone coming up in the industry, that anything’s possible.

“So believe and keep going.”

The two Parks—one the owner of the high-end men’s shoe boutique Leather Soul and the other a veteran of national and international cocktail competitions at which he’s won numerous awards—opened Bar Leather Apron in the lobby of the Topa Financial Center in 2015. Last year, in the same week Fête’s Robynne Maii won Hawai‘i’s first James Beard Award in 19 years (Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific), Bar Leather Apron was named one of the country’s 50 best bars.

SEE ALSO: Bar Leather Apron Named One of 50 Best Bars

Photo: Martha Cheng

At the same ceremony Monday in Chicago, Hawai‘i Island’s Manago Hotel was recognized as one of the James Beard Foundation’s 2023 America’s Classics, a designation awarded to only six longtime local businesses across the country. Famous for its legendary pork chops, the restaurant was represented onstage by members of the Manago family, who opened it in 1917 and still run it today. The America’s Classics awards were announced in February.

SEE ALSO: Foodflash: Manago Hotel Wins James Beard America’s Classics Award

Reservations for Bar Leather Apron strongly recommended. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 12 midnight, 745 Fort Street Mall #127, barleatherapron.com, @barleatherapron

At last, 88 Mart, the successor to 88 Pal Pal Super Market from Ke‘eaumoku Street, opened Wednesday, May 24, in the former Longs Drugs on Hotel Street. Construction on parts of the store continued as customers streamed in past a banner advertising the soft opening. Lines formed at the registers, and excitement filled the air.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

88 Mart follows the opening of owners David Choi and Sara Lee’s first business in the Executive Centre: Bishop ‘Ono KAI, a restaurant in the former Hukilau Honolulu space. The menu at ‘Ono KAI is a blend of Korean, American and Italian dishes created by chef Jung Dongwoo, who relocated from Daejeon, South Korea.

SEE ALSO: Ke‘eaumoku’s 88 Mart Is Opening a Supermarket and Restaurant Downtown

Photo: Thomas Obungen

This market format differs slightly from the original store in Honolulu’s de facto Koreatown. You won’t find as much fresh produce or sliced meat for barbecuing, but more grab-and-go bentos, musubi, rice cakes and kimbap rolls. Asian snacks, pantry staples, beverages and home goods fill the aisles. There’s also a wall of Korean instant noodles and soon, a ramyun bar with hot water machines to prepare a quick lunch on the spot.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

I was excited to find the kim (roasted seaweed paper) that only 88 Pal Pal once carried. The sheets are individually wrapped so you can prepare convenience store-style triangle kimbap with crispy nori at home. Just make some rice, add tuna mayo in the middle and you’re good to go for lunch on the go. I also found tempura fried pepper chips, which I’m told is a newish snack taking over pantries in Seoul. Thin slices of green pepper are battered and fried crispy—begging to be paired with an icy glass of somek, a soju and beer cocktail.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

For the imo (aunties),  clothing and fashions direct from Dongdaemun and K-beauty products are available. Some aisles have yet to be filled, and the ramyun bar I mentioned earlier is not up and running just yet.

As for parking, I am waiting on a response from management. For now, it’s easiest and cheapest to park at one of the city’s municipal lots at Ali‘i Place or underground between Bethel Street and Nu‘uanu Avenue. Although I think it’s safe to assume most customers either work or live in Downtown or take public transit, which stops right in front of the store.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

88 Mart has yet to achieve its full potential, but the buzz around its opening hints at a positive future for this part of Downtown Honolulu. With the revitalization of nearby Fort Street Mall and the soon-to-be AC Hotel across the street, the intersection of Hotel and Bishop Streets may once again be busy.

The two spaces at 1088 Bishop St. are owned by XPLUS LLC, which is owned by Duane Kurisu, whose aio Media Group includes HONOLULU Magazine and Frolic Hawai‘i.

Open daily from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., 1088 Bishop St., @88supermarkethawaii