These Are The Best Bites (and More) at Nami Kaze in Iwilei
(Partner Content) Have a taste of what’s fresh from the land and sea at this modern local izakaya.
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Whether he’s taking you back to small-kid times with a taste of his grandfather’s barbecue sauce, or to Latin America with a tender leg of Spanish octopus, you learn it’s more about the journey than the destination with chef Jason Peel’s Nami Kaze. Here, it’s almost impossible to pick out the best bites, as each one will stun your tastebuds in different ways—which just reinforces why it was our editors’ choice as the Hale ‘Aina Best New Restaurant of 2023. In our recent visit, we dive into a tablescape of dishes from the izakya-focused dinner menu meant for sharing over drinks.
Cocktails add to the experience with pronounced flavors and maximum sip-ability. We also enjoy their sake selection, including the Bushido Ginjo Genshu on tap that’s robust, but lends itself to so many of the dishes.
Seafood and local farm fresh vegetables are prominent features of the constantly rotating menu. If you love texture, start with ‘ulu two ways: first, as crispy, pillowy tots stacked up on Hide’s Sticky Sauce, a nod to a sweet-savory sauce Peel’s grandfather would make, and showered with Sweet Land Farms goat cheese tomme. Then, there’s ‘ulu patatas bravas, which maintains the starchy breadfruit sections and is served with dots of gels and Kewpie mayo for dredging.
Tender roasted Spanish octopus is divine in the simplest way, accented with a Mexican inspired pipián sauce made with Ho Farms tomatillo and ground sesame seeds. The crispy fish, normally branzino, is sometimes substituted with local reef fish like aholehole. These are fried whole and sit over a pool of Filipino-inspired sauce vierge. It’s vinegary, sweet and goes so well with garlic rice. In addition to seafood, two meat dishes make a rare appearance, including crispy pork belly that hits notes of sweet, salty and spicy in the same bite.
Located at Pier 38, under the headquarters of Fresh Island Fish, Nami Kaze has access to the freshest seafood. Sushi and sashimi shouldn’t be missed, including the hamachi crudo, ‘ahi tartare and creamy lobster sushi rolls.
Before you’re too full, Beverly Luk’s layered desserts deserve more than a glance. Whatever’s in rotation, just get it.
These bites barely scratch the surface of what Peel and his team at Nami Kaze offer us diners. While we look forward to the attentively warm service and a calendar of interesting dining events year-round, it’s important to recognize the folks that make it all happen. Rarely do we witness such a productive and inspired team eager to push the envelope on dining in Hawai‘i. It’s them who we’re also thrilled to see as the future of our restaurant scene.
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