Kaka‘ako Archives - Honolulu Magazine

Celebrate the 2024 Holidays at Ward Village

HONOLULU Branded Content Team — Mon, 25 Nov 2024 19:00:22 +0000

Photo: Courtesy of Ward Village

Experience the magic of the season at Ward Village. Expect festive events and celebrations throughout the neighborhood now through the end of December.

Photo: Courtesy of Ward Village

On December 6th, 13th, and 20th, from 5 to 7pm, soak in the sounds of the season at the Aloha Friday Holiday Music Series at the South Shore Market courtyard, featuring live entertainment from Ei Nei, Honoka, Alx Kawakami, Kawika Kahiapo, and Bobby Moderow Jr., followed by a holiday-themed light show for all to enjoy.

The annual Holiday Celebration is on Sunday, December 14, at the South Shore Market courtyard. Shop, dine and then delight in hot cocoa, sweet treats, and holiday activities.

Photo: Courtesy of Ward Village

Support keiki and seniors in need during the Toys for Tots drive (now through Dec. 8th) and the Senior Giving Tree (now through Dec. 15th). Simply drop off new, unwrapped toys at donation bins at South Shore Market or Ward Centre for local children, and visit Logos Bookstore, T.J. Maxx, or Whole Foods Market to select an ornament with a “wish” for local seniors.

In addition to these exciting events, peruse the variety of local, national and global boutiques to find unique, one-of-a-kind gifts for everyone on your list.

Discover everything to see, do, eat, and shop at Ward Village this holiday season! Visit our Ward Village Holiday Guide for details on all the celebrations, and more.

New & Coming Restaurants on O‘ahu

Thomas Obungen — Thu, 21 Nov 2024 18:30:32 +0000

430 PKWY

Kaka‘ako

A speakeasy cocktail bar and lounge from Chris Kajioka is planned for the Waimanu-Pi‘ikoi corner of Kaka‘ako, already home to Tempura Ichika, Sushi Gyoshin and Hangang Korean Grill House. Look out for opening details in December.

430 Pi‘ikoi St., @430_pkwy

Amaterasu

Ala Moana

Frolic’s editors have been fond of Hideo Ohmiya’s thoughtful sushi omakase since he opened his first counter at Artizen inside the Velocity luxury car showroom. Since Amaterasu closed in April, we’ve kept our ears to the ground for when and where it would reappear. Amaterasu’s first brick-and-mortar opened yesterday, Nov. 20, one floor below Ala Moana Center’s Lanai food court near Macy’s. Soft-opening price is $100 a person; reserve on OpenTable.

1450 Ala Moana Blvd., @amaterasushi808

Big Island Burger

Waikīkī

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Jeff Carzino’s Big Island beef burgers are now in Waikīkī. Carzino’s Ultimate Burger in Kailua-Kona is popular for its commitment to local ingredients, 100% grass-fed Big Island beef and fresh-cut fries. On O‘ahu, I’m told there will be plant-based options, a 10% kama‘āina discount and parking validation with a minimum spend. Find this in Waikīkī Shopping Plaza on the street level.

2250 Kalākaua Ave. #102, @bigisland.burger

Faria

Kailua

Photo: Courtesy of Faria

Faria bills itself as a Pasifika Portuguese restaurant that, when it opens in early December, will pay homage to Hawai‘i’s Portuguese immigrants and their descendants. Recipes from co-owner Kawehi Haug’s family include alcatra con purê de batata, an Azorean pot roast stew; and pulvo á lagareiro, seared octopus with potatoes and sausage. I’m looking forward to the Butter Mochi Amendoa, Haug’s riff on bolo de arroz (rice flour cake) and butter mochi with an almond float topping.

305 Ku‘ulei Road, fariahawaii.com, @fariahawaii

Favorite Son

Waikīkī

Favorite Son has a lot going for it. Offerings at this deli-meets-diner on the ground floor of the Romer Waikīkī start with breakfast and continue through the day with toasted hoagies, Detroit-style pizza, salads, protein bowls and cocktails too. The bright, airy space is on the quieter ‘Ewa end of Waikīkī.

2040 Kūhiō Ave., romerhotels.com, @favoritesonwaikiki

Gecko Girlz Shave Ice

Diamond Head

Photo: Thomas Obungen

There can never be too many shave ice shops in Hawai‘i. Gecko Girlz proves my point, bringing its vibrantly hued creations and syrups from Kona to a location near Diamond Head. The Kona Sunset with vanilla ice cream, liliko‘i and lychee syrups, liliko‘i puree, coconut cream snow cap and mochi is an especially sweet signature item, but you can also craft your own.

3045 Monsarrat Ave., geckogirlz.com, @geckogirlzshaveice

Honolulu Bagel Co.

Downtown

With the recipes and baker from now-shuttered Lox of Bagels on board, Honolulu Bagel has opened Downtown on the Pauahi Street portion of Fort Street Mall. Daily bagel selections, schmears and a roster of sandwiches round out a menu that will also bring back the schmear-stuffed Bagel Bombs.

73 S. Pauahi St., @honolulubagelcompany

Gohan

Makiki

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Honolulu’s first made-to-order musubi and hand roll bar brings new excitement to this stretch of South King Street. Gohan pairs fluffy, freshly milled Tsuyahime rice with crisp Ariake nori to make excellent rice balls and hand rolls with classic and inspired toppings. The tonjiru pork miso soup and tsukemono pickles are also worth trying. Grab-and-go options are available, but dine at the counter for the best experience.

1314 S. King St., @gohan.hawaii

Harumi

Waikīkī

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Waikīkī’s newest izakaya offers a broad menu of Japanese classics: sushi rolls, nigiri, yakitori and tempura. Menu items that stand out: fava bean tempura ($6.95), beef and pineapple kushiyaki ($3.95) and Hawaiian-style oxtail soup ($11.95). If you’re game to brave Waikīkī parking, Harumi looks like it might be a fun joint to start the night.

339 Royal Hawaiian Ave., @harumi_waikiki

SEE ALSO: Where to Park in Waikīkī

Lady Elaine

Mānoa

Lady Elaine, the second Mānoa Marketplace restaurant by Dusty Grable’s Lovers + Fighters group, is expected to open in December. Grable says menu items will range from Southern Italian and Sicilian to dishes with Moroccan, Provençal and Lebanese influences. The restaurant will have indoor and outdoor seating and a large by-the-glass wine program, which I am especially looking forward to.

2752 Woodlawn Dr.

Mille Fête

Chinatown

Photo: Sean Marrs

James Beard Award-winning chef Robynne Maii is putting the final touches on her new Chinatown bakery-café with pastry chef Katherine Yang of Gigi Blue in New York. Expect sandwiches, ice cream, baked goods, cakes and other confections from these two powerhouse chefs. The opening was planned for December but it’s looking more like January 2025.

1113 Smith St., @millefete

Please Come Again

Kailua

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Ube crunch. Rose lychee. Shiso mint chip. These are some of the 16 ice cream flavors lingering on the brain after a visit to Please Come Again, a craft parlor that opened in early November in Kailua. As the name suggests, we will be coming again and again to try more whimsical ice creams and sorbets.

322 Ku‘ulei Road, @pleasecomeagainhawaii

Tonkatsu Kuro

Kaka‘ako

Expect cold soba and premium kurobuta pork tonkatsu combination sets from Tonkatsu Kuro, which is slated to open in coming weeks in the space on the corner of Halekauwila Street and Robinson Lane, kitty corner from Rinka.

1000 Auahi St., @tonkatsu.kuro.hi

Youpo Noodles

Chinatown

Photo: Thomas Obungen

After a brief experiment with Nasi Lemak, a farmers market stall with a focus on Malaysia’s national dish, Andrew Pressler is bringing back the hand-pulled biang biang mien that was the original star of his operation. The super chewy, spicy noodles get their flavoring from scalding hot oil hitting the herbs and spices in an aromatic flash. This time, however, Youpo Noodles has graduated from the farmers markets to its first brick-and-mortar spot in Chinatown. It’ll be closed Thanksgiving week and back in operation the first week of December.

1109 Maunakea St., @youponoodleshi

In Kaka‘ako, Plant-Based Goes Vogue at 3 Restaurants

Mari Taketa — Fri, 01 Nov 2024 10:00:10 +0000

Where Plant-Based Goes Vogue | Where Vegetables Go Indulgent

Vegan steak and eggs from Istanbul. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

In the land of katsu and loco moco, I discover what a hard sell meatless food can be when I offer to treat a friend to a plant-based lunch. “Thanks, but I think I’ll pass,” she texts. “I’d rather pay for red meat.” She’s not alone: While much of the country feasts on an explosion of plant-based options from comfort food to fine dining, the growth of Honolulu’s scene has been as laidback as the vibe at a vegan café.

How laidback? Peace Café opened in 2010 and Juicy Brew 10 years ago, both now staples in a shifting scene of Asian vegan restaurants and casual eateries offering crunchy kale bowls, avocado toast, meatless Korean chicken and yes, loco mocos. A modest upscaling began with the arrivals of Tane Vegan Izakaya in Mō‘ili‘ili in 2019 and plant-based prix fixe at AV Restaurant in Kaimukī (closed since a fire in January) and Nature Waikīkī two years later. And that’s about it. So while plant eaters have more options these days, omnivores may not have noticed.

“It is tricky to create a menu that will make everybody happy. But it is the creative process that is the most beautiful part of cooking.”

—Ahu Hettema, chef and co-owner, Istanbul Hawai‘i

Watermelon ‘ahi crudo. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Çılbır at Istanbul in Kaka‘ako. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Istanbul

* * *

Across from Whole Foods Market, dressed in cerulean blues and old-world tapestries, Istanbul thrums. It’s the city’s only Turkish restaurant, and it’s perpetually busy. Meatless dishes like imam bayildi, or tomato-stuffed eggplants, were already available before June, when chef and co-owner Ahu Hettema ramped up the options in a new Botanical Compositions section of the menu—because the volume of customer requests for animal-free substitutes was slowing operations, she says. Now plant-forward dishes drive 40% of Istanbul’s sales, half from the top-selling mezze platter.

“In my restaurant, I feel like plant-based dishes are ordered by younger people or older people,” Hettema says. Among these groups, “there’s two types. One type is people who quit eating meat because they have extraordinary love for animals, or they have health issues and they miss the meat texture, the meat look. Those guests adore our plant-based steak and eggs and our manti. They are so thankful.”

The other type? “They don’t want anything that looks like meat. They want things to look like plants. We created dishes that look like meat, taste like meat, smell like meat, and we also have dishes that are completely made out of plants, like our imam bayildi,” she says. “It is tricky to create a menu that will make everybody happy. But it is the creative process that is the most beautiful part of cooking. Especially with my ADHD, I get bored if things are not challenging.”

On Istanbul’s regular menu, manti dumplings are made with A5 Miyazaki wagyu. The plant-based version uses Impossible Beef, which “doesn’t taste good,” Hettema says. So she and her mother, Nili Yildirim, tested the soy protein mixture with different spices before settling on a blend with allspice, cardamom, and toasted, ground karanfil cloves. Hettema claims even carnivores sometimes order it as a lighter alternative to rich wagyu.

Not every substitution is as involved—like cashew cheese instead of ricotta on the manakeesh flatbreads, for instance. In the Delectable Çılbır, which the menu says was “eaten by Ottoman sultans since the 15th century,” OK Poultry eggs are replaced by soy-protein versions. When I slip my fork in, they release golden yolks onto a garlicky sea of cashew yogurt. Which is pretty mind-bending, actually. What would the sultans think?

1108 Auahi St., (808) 772-4440, istanbulhawaii.com, @istanbulhawaii

“I believe people can put energy into food, and energy level is important to health too.”

—Meiko Fuchie, co-owner, Alo Café

Coconut curry.

Banana toast.

Curry ramen at Alo Café. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Alo Café

* * *

In the Salt complex on the other side of Ward Avenue, Alo Café exudes a beachy calm. A surfboard hangs on a wall, lau hala sun hats are for sale, and sofas invite lounging. The décor isn’t a trope, it’s a whole-life statement: Alo’s owners, Meiko and Ryoichi Fuchie, are surfers and vegans who came to Hawai‘i from Japan to balance their lives and reduce their carbon footprint.

At Alo, the food looks like plants. Açaí bowls, nutty banana toast, spinach wraps with hummus and avocado, tantan ramen—all are made with no animal products, MSG, refined sugars or artificial additives.

“I don’t want to lie to customers or to our heart or soul or to our children,” says Meiko Fuchie, who keeps snapshots of her son and daughter near the sun hats. “We want to show them that we are enjoying our lives doing what we want, and we believe in what we do.”

Alo is actually a micro chain. The Fuchies opened smaller versions in Waikīkī in 2021 and Downtown last fall. The Kaka‘ako café, the only one with a full kitchen, joined Salt’s 18 other eateries, including Arvo Café and Lanikai Juice, in June. In late summer, the couple added dinner hours and wondered if bolstering the menu with meat, fish and egg dishes might draw more customers. “I hope adding meat options will bring people who were not even interested in vegan food,” Meiko Fuchie says. “We want them to come and experience [vegan food] once, and think, oh it’s so good, it doesn’t taste vegan.”

That target audience includes me. Given the choice, I’ll opt for a lamb shank, pipi kaula or sashimi when eating out; I can eat vegetables at home. At Alo, hoping for something richer and heartier than a Buddha bowl, I order the coconut veggie curry. It takes a little while—dishes are made to order because “I believe people can put energy into food,” Fuchie says, “and energy level is important to health too.” Since “Get Relax. Eat” is one of the café’s taglines, I do my best to oblige until the curry arrives—a pretty mosaic of organic rice and lightly pickled red cabbage, garlicky asparagus, grape tomatoes and arugula in a steaming, turmeric-hued sauce. Notes of coconut and ginger segue to a nuanced tang that reminds me of tamarind. It’s lighter than the meaty curries I’m used to. And it is so good.

691 Auahi St., (808) 798-7684, @alocafe_hawaii

“Plant-based is definitely trending. We wanted to bring that to Hawai‘i in an approachable, fun way—unique and creative things where you’d want to try them anyway because it sounds good.”

—Brandon Lam, co-founder, La Tour Café

Planted’s assortment with vegan macarons. Photo: Corina Quach

Planted by La Tour

* * *

My meat-loving friend consents to a plant-based lunch after I send her a photo of Planted’s smash burgers. With its artichoke katsu sandwiches, Chick’n tenders, vegan macarons and kouign amanns, Planted draws a different demographic than Istanbul’s well-heeled patrons and Alo’s yoga and hipster crowd. Planted’s demo, in fact, looks a lot like Brandon and Trung Lam—co-founders of La Tour Café and sons of the couple who launched Ba-Le and La Tour Bakehouse. Planted is La Tour Café’s first offshoot.

“Plant-based is definitely trending. We wanted to bring that to Hawai‘i in an approachable, fun way—unique and creative things where you’d want to try them anyway because it sounds good,” says Brandon Lam, 40, the CEO. Many items come with fresh breads from La Tour; Lam estimates that less than 10% of other ingredients are processed, like Impossible meats. “Everything else we try to do from scratch or an approach that is unique to us, whatever produces good results in the most natural way possible.”

It seems to be working. After a slower trial period in ‘Āina Haina, Planted opened across from Rinka Restaurant to steady traffic in April. Amid a trickle of weekday afternoon customers, my friend stares at the menu, torn between the teri burger and the fried green tomato sandwich. Like many omnivores, she likes the idea of healthier eating but doesn’t want to feel deprived. She devours her teri burger before I can get a taste. It dripped with juicy sauces and the lettuce, tomato and onion were very fresh, she offers by way of apology. Her only complaint is that the patty was thin. It’s a smash burger, I remind her. Then they should make it a double, she says.

My lunch is the Aloha Tamago Tartine, an open-face egg salad sandwich inspired by Japan’s cult-status kombini egg sandos, plus a cup of mushroomy Umami Broth and La Tour’s famous fries. The fries come with a ranch aioli that tastes like real mayonnaise. The egg salad, made with Aloha Tofu, kabocha and a Himalayan salt with an eerily yolk-like flavor, tastes like egg salad. My friend eats half of my food while texting her cousins. She’s inviting them to a plant-based lunch.

987 Queen St., (808) 200-5985, @planted.hi

A Sandwich Pop-Up Inspired by Bold Sri Lankan and Indonesian Flavors

Thomas Obungen — Tue, 29 Oct 2024 18:30:36 +0000

Sri Lankan black pork curry with kale and coconut mellam on Breadshop ciabatta. Photo: Thomas Obungen

I recently discovered that Sri Lankan black pork curry with kale and coconut mellum are as at home on griddled Breadshop ciabatta as they are with fragrant long-grain rice. Although I’m no stranger to bold Indonesian curries and chile-flecked sambals, the handheld versions have made Bada Gini, Fishcake’s newest popup, an exciting change to my Thursday lunch routine.

But just fast as my new obsession took hold, it’s been put on pause: After today, I learned, Bada Gini is taking a hiatus until sometime next year. Huge bummer (what will I eat on Thursdays?), but I’m still excited. Here’s why:

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Badagini translates to “I’m hungry” in Sinhala, the language of Sri Lanka. After owner Sara Uduwela tells me this, on my first visit, I tell her I was the exact opposite of badagini after inhaling half of my pork curry sandwich ($18). The pillowy ciabatta is an ideal vessel for the tender pieces of pork shoulder in a smoky curry tamed by coconut milk and pieces of stir-fried kale and coconut flakes.

But it is Uduwela’s sambal belacan Kewpie mayo that steals the show. Belacan is a Malay shrimp paste; this is an infinitely better, more complex version of mayo made with Sriracha. Even after downing a cold can of Yeo’s soy milk ($3), sweat beads under my eyes. On the side, fried bitternut chips offer more solace from the heat. I take my leftovers home to enjoy the next day.

I’m back the following Thursday, and with a new week come two new sandwiches. The chicken curry grilled cheese ($18) is the hot seller because when you put curry and cheese together, it practically sells itself. I wasn’t lucky enough to nab one, so I got the alternative: a fried tofu sandwich with green bean urap (a salad with spiced coconut) and sambal matah ($18). Uduwela’s vegetarian option is thick enough to stand on its own. I especially love the crunch of the green beans and the refreshing notes of shallots, makrut lime leaves and chiles in the sambal. The sandwich takes inspiration from the plethora of side dishes and toppings that define Balinese cuisine. I might have finished this one too, but I had a big dinner to save room for.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

To play your cards right, bring a friend, buy both sandwiches and trade halves. If I could peel my boyfriend away from work, that’s what I would do.

Uduwela is a total third-culture kid. Born in Singapore to a Chinese mother and Sri Lankan father, she grew up there and in San Diego. A commercial photographer by trade, she most recently lived in Australia, which has a strong sandwich culture. That, along with the cuisines of her upbringing, merged into the catalyst for Bada Gini. Uduwela has no formal culinary training, but her flavors tastes true and genuine, not contrived or gimmicky. The sandwiches are solidly delicious. Finally, someone is shaking up the world of sammies, sandos and banh mis, which, in the Islands, don’t get as much love as plate lunch and bento.

Bada Gini joins a growing list of Southeast Asian pop-up restaurants and farmers market vendors that have found a footing on O‘ahu. Andrew Pressler’s Nasi Lemak serves up the national dish of Malaysia with spiced proteins and traditional garnishes at farmers markets. Shioketh launched in September with Peranakan and Indonesian dishes at Hapa Market in Pālolo. This microtrend of spicy vendors follows the brick-and-mortar openings of Straits, Café Kopi and SingMaTei in recent years, all of which have expanded the presence of this region’s famously bold flavors.

This Thursday will be Uduwela’s final popup, at least until next year, and she’s going out with a bang: three sandwiches including the spicy pork curry ciabatta, an eggplant motu pita and a spicy sardine salad on Japanese milk bread. If you’re willing to endure the torture of eating your first and last Bada Gini sandwich, plan on lunch at Fishcake. Then you can join me as we wait for her next update.

Thursday, Oct. 31, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. or until sold out, 307c Kamani St., @badagini.hi

Aloha Beer and Waikīkī Brewing Trade Places, Honolulu Beerworks Is Moving and More Local Beer News

Alexander B. Gates — Thu, 24 Oct 2024 19:00:03 +0000

Aloha Beer Co. & Waikiki Brewing Co.

Two popular Queen Street breweries are undergoing major changes, and we’re here to break it down for you. In a nutshell, Waikīkī Brewing Co. has vacated its Kaka‘ako facility and returned to brewing only at its OG pub at the corner of Kalākaua Avenue and Ala Moana Boulevard. Farther down Kalākaua Avenue, the spot that was formerly Aloha Beer Co.’s al fresco pub is now Waikīkī Brewing’s new beer garden. Aloha Beer, meanwhile, has acquired Waikīkī Brewing’s old production brewery at 831 Queen St.

So what just happened, and what does it mean? For Waikīkī Brewing, the loss of its small brewing facility and taproom in the Lahaina fire last summer was a major hit to production, not to mention all the staff who lost their jobs. The brewery’s OG pub in Waikīkī is now its main production facility, both for core selections and limited batch beers that will be coming more regularly. New head brewer Patrick Feltz says he’s focused on helping the company “transition from a larger production-focused brewery back to its creative brewpub roots. Through the tweaks we’re making in both recipes and processes, I see our beer quality improving batch by batch and the staff and general public are responding exceedingly well.”

Now that all its beer is made in Waikīkī, the company has shifted to a draft-only model. You will not see Waikīkī Brewing’s cans on shelves anymore. You can find its draft selections at its OG pub at 1945 Kalākaua Ave., at Cheeseburger Waikīkī, 808 Craft House in Ko Olina, and its South Side Maui pub. Draft beers are also available at Waikīkī Brewing Co. Kalākaua, the all-outdoor beer garden it just took over from Aloha Beer. Waikīkī Brewing has closed its bar inside Royal Hawaiian Center’s Waikīkī Food Hall.

More news: Waikīkī Brewing and Hana Koa Brewing are co-hosting a beer pairing dinner at 808 Craft House on Nov. 12. The five-course meal will feature beers from both breweries for $90 a person. The menu and tickets are available here.

So Waikīkī Brewing is now doing business at two addresses on Kalākaua Avenue, while Aloha Beer has two spots on Queen Street. “We’re excited about this transition,” says Candice Ishikawa, Aloha Beer’s head of marketing. “Not only does this increase our brewing capacity, but it also gives us room to grow our beer garden into a true destination for both locals and visitors.” The new facility will house production of Aloha Beer’s high-volume styles, while the current 700 Queen St. location will continue to brew seasonal, experimental and small-batch beers.

“This expansion opens the door for Aloha Beer to pursue additional opportunities,” Ishikawa says, “including contract brewing for smaller breweries and offering support to fellow brewers in the community.” The company has not set an opening date for its new production facility, but Ishikawa says there will be “a small taproom and tasting room, production tours, a streamlined beer-to-go experience and occasional tap parties to recreate the nostalgia of Kakaʻako’s vibrant past, reminiscent of Art & Flea days.”

Waikīkī Brewing Co., 2155 Kalākaua Ave., 1945 Kalākaua Ave., waikikibrewing.com, @waikikibrewco

Aloha Beer Co., 700 Queen St., 831 Queen St. (latter not yet open), alohabeer.com, @alohabeerco

Honolulu Beerworks

Photo: Courtesy of Honolulu Beerworks

In early November, this Kakaʻako staple for over decade will close its brewpub on Cooke Street. But don’t fear: Beerworks is opening a much larger facility in the Kapālama area of Kalihi in early 2025 to expand its can and keg distribution success. The new Beerworks will have a taproom with snacks and allow BYOF, and a rotation of food trucks will follow. Join the closing celebration on Saturday, Nov. 2, with signature Italian hoagies, throwback beers on tap, and a limited smoked blonde porter with whiskey pairing. In these last days in Kaka‘ako, look for specials including 50% off draft beers and 50% off merchandise.

328 Cooke St., honolulubeerworks.com, @honolulubeer

Hammerhead Bay Brewing

This all-new microbrewery is coming soon to the T. Yogi Building in Kāne‘ohe. Follow its social media for updates.

@hammerheadbaybrewing

Lēʻahi Brewing Co.

Focused on sustainability, local ingredients and its local Hawai‘i history, this brewery is coming soon to the old Hooters site at Aloha Tower Marketplace. Follow its social media for updates.

@leahibrewingco

Kalihi Beer Co.

Beers from this Kalihi success story formerly known as Broken Boundary Brewery are now in stores, including ABC Stores. The taproom on Mo‘owa‘a Street is changing hours to Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only, but it’s available weekdays for private event rentals.

740 Mo‘owa‘a St., @kalihibeer

Wherever you like to drink, cheers to supporting local beer in Hawai‘i!

Just in Time for Halloween, Hana Koa’s “Fangs for Donating” Hazy IPA Is a Plea for the Blood Bank

Alexander B. Gates — Mon, 21 Oct 2024 18:30:50 +0000

Image: Courtesy of Hana Koa Brewing Co.

In a first for the local beer industry, Hana Koa Brewing Co. just released a new beer to benefit the Blood Bank of Hawai‘i. Fangs for Donating, a hazy IPA with an ABV of 6.5%, came out in cans and on draft last Friday—just ahead of an onsite blood drive at the Kaka‘ako brewery this Saturday, Oct. 26.

Photo: Courtesy of Hana Koa Brewing Co.

Hana Koa head brewer and owner Josh Kopp was the first victi—that is, participant to donate blood. The Blood Bank is open daily because people in Hawai‘i need 200 pints of blood a day, especially type O and platelets. And while all the slots at Saturday’s 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. blood drive filled up, the drive has been extended to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sign up at bbh.org/#blooddrive. What’s more, Hana Koa is giving every donor a $10 gift card and free plate of fries!

If you can’t make it this Saturday, the Blood Bank’s donation centers are open daily and conveniently located around the Islands. You can find a blood drive or donation site any day of the week at the Blood Bank website.

And if you are unable to donate blood, stop by the brewery for a pint of Fangs for Donating. Ten percent of all sales from this beer will go directly to the Blood Bank, while supplies last. Fangs for donating!

Blood Drive at Hana Koa Brewing Co.

Where: 962 Kawaiaha‘o St.
When: Saturday, Oct. 26, 2024, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Info: bbh.org, hanakoabrewing.com

Find This Bar With Hundreds of Wines to Taste in Industrial Kaka‘ako

Thomas Obungen — Thu, 10 Oct 2024 18:30:46 +0000

If I pointed at an auto body garage and said you could try more than 100 wines by the glass there, would you believe me? I promise it’s for real. Silver Lining Wine Bar hides inside Unibody Autotech on Waimanu Street in industrial Kaka‘ako. And there’s no way you would know from the street, not even a sign.

Head toward Unibody and enter the tinted glass door. Act like you know where you’re going. Don’t go up the stairs—that’s the cigar lounge Brix and Stones—and instead, walk past them to the unmarked diamond-plated door. Do this only after you’ve made reservations. Then prepare to dive into the world of natural wine with Silver Lining’s owner, Rick Lilley.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Lilley brings a jovial educational approach to low-intervention wines. Previously 12^th Avenue Grill’s wine and beverage director and currently wine curator at Nature Waikīkī, he opened Brix and Stones with his wife, Elaine Lilley, during the pandemic. Lilley’s affinity for natural wine began when he was a buyer at Kermit Lynch, the country’s most important wine importer and merchant. In Europe, Lilley learned about biodynamic wines from producers who have continued the tradition of making wine without intervention for generations.

On the counter at Silver Lining are two books. One has the food menu and an abbreviated list of wines by the glass or bottle, along with spirits and cocktails from Brix and Stones’ barrel program. Book two is an exhaustive bottle list divided by wine type. It also lists wines available by the glass when you order a minimum of four glasses. Smaller pours of 2.5 ounces mean you can try a lot more than if you committed to a full 4- or 5-ounce glass.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

We split two small plates: Chef Nae’s chicken liver mousse with Breadshop toast ($16) and the 12-slice charcuterie board ($27) with speck, mortadella and spicy soppressata. Other food options include a spinach, chicken and mushroom salad ($18), a brisket patty burger by Goodfellas ($22) and a selection of popular panini and pinsa (pizza) from Bocconcino next door. The charcuterie also comes from Bocconcino and is sliced fresh to order at Silver Lining.

Chef Nae is Nature Waikīkī’s Nae Ogawa, who gives her chicken liver mousse to Lilley as thanks for curating the wine pairings for her menus. A glass of Chavost Blanc d’Assemblage Brut Nature ($15), an organic Champagne made with a blend of chardonnay and pinot meunier grapes, is dry with high acid, making it ideal with the rich liver mousse. A more interesting pairing is the off-dry Champalou Les Fondraux Vouvray, one of the best examples of chenin blanc from the Loire Valley in France. Its mild sweetness acts like a berry compote that lifts the delicious liver mousse to new heights.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

As we nibble on the charcuterie, we ask for more recommendations from Lilley. Although it’s too early for this year’s Beaujolais nouveau, he has a bottle from last year’s crop that he’s been liking lately. I ask to try a glass. It might have been a little past its prime, but I still taste the fruitiness and youth that make Beaujolais so easy to gulp. We also try an orange wine from Meinklang, an iconic biodynamic Austrian farm, and a red wine blend by a micro producer called 4 Mono Viticultores from Madrid, Spain.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Conversations about how each of the wines lift or accentuate the different flavors of our bites are the beginnings of lessons about similar grapes and other wines that could work. Now the fun part: trying new pairings that buck the trend, especially when it comes to natural wines.

Otherwise known as low-intervention wines, natural wines have been around forever, but they’ve become mainstream in the last decade. They differ from most commercially available wines in that they start with organic grapes and use no artificial additives. The process is close to the way wine was traditionally made. Most winemakers use additives, sulfates or stabilizers to alter the taste, color, clarity or shelf life. These additives are usually imperceptible on the palate and are widely accepted and legal in many producing regions.

Natural wines may sound great on paper, but they also have shortcomings. Since they do not contain sulfites, they are unstable and have a lifespan of about a year. They are often described as funky or yeasty and contain impurities or have a cloudy appearance. Natural wines typically go against conventional standards for what makes a good wine, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be outstanding.

Whether you’re deep into wine or just scratching the surface, Silver Lining Wine Bar is an ideal springboard to a sea of wines you might not see in grocery stores or wine shops on the island.

Reservations only, Wednesday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., 999 Waimanu St., brixandstones.com, Resy, @silverlininghawaii

8 Places to Celebrate Oktoberfest 2024 on O‘ahu

Alexander B. Gates — Wed, 18 Sep 2024 21:30:41 +0000

Photo: Courtesy of Lanikai Brewing Co.

Originally a Bavarian tradition to celebrate a prince’s wedding, Oktoberfest has spread around the world as a festival celebrating great German beers, food and music—even in the middle of the Pacific. So grab a stein, bring an empty belly and enjoy these festivals around O‘ahu.

Photo: Courtesy of Salt at Our Kaka‘ako

Oktoberfest at Salt at Our Kaka‘ako

When: Saturday, Sept. 21, and Saturday, Sept. 28, 5 to 9 p.m.
Where: Salt at Our Kaka‘ako, 691 Auahi St.
Tickets: Free entry, pay as you go

The popular multi-week event from Village Bottle Shop & Tasting Room features stein hoisting competitions with prizes and German beers from classics such as Ayinger, Spaten, and Paulaner. German food specials will be available for purchase from Butcher & Bird (sadly their last event before closing). Also featuring live entertainment by Chamber Music Hawaiʻi’s Honolulu Brass Quintet & The Matterhorns.

Lanikai Brewing Oktoberfest

When: Saturday, Sept. 21, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Where: Lanikai Brewing Company, 167 Hamakua Dr., Kailua
Tickets: Free entry, pay as you go

This local brewery on O‘ahu’s Windward Side is throwing their own Oktoberfest celebration all day. In addition to their onsite Valentina’s Brick Oven Pizza, they’ll have a selection of pretzels, bratwurst, and sauerkraut. On the beer side, they have THREE releases that day, including a surprise collaboration with Punalu‘u Bake Shop.

Photo: Courtesy of Hana Koa Brewing

Hana Koa Brewing Oktoberfest Beer & Food

When: Sept. 21 to Oct. 5
Where: Hana Koa Brewing Co., 962 Kawaiaha‘o St.

This year, Hana Koa Brewing continues their annual tradition with the release of Hammershlager Festbier Lager in cans and on draft. Buy their “Das Boot” glassware for discounted pours. Daily food specials of soft pretzels with mustard and beer cheese and build-your-own-brat with toppings like sauerkraut will be available, plus a Saturday-only dinner special of schweinbraten plate with mustard gravy and potato salad.

Waikiki Brewing Co. Beer Flights & Food Pairings

When: Sept. 21 to Sept. 28
Where: Waikīkī Brewing Co., 1945 Kalākaua Ave.

Waikīkī Brewing has gone through a lot of changes in the last year, with many of them direct issues after the Lahaina wildfires. Thankfully, they are pulling through with a robust beer program kicking off with Oktoberfest. They’ll be releasing FOUR traditional beers: Pūpū Pils, Waikiki Fest, Dad’s Dunkel Lager, and Dunkelweizen. To taste them all, they’ll be offering a flight of all four with the option to purchase a full pint of your favorite at a discount. For the week, they’ll also have German food specials, including pretzels, brats, schnitzel sandwiches, Black Forest brownies and apple strudel.

Photo: Courtesy of Hale Koa Hotel

Oktoberfest 2024 at Hale Koa Hotel

When: Friday, Sept. 27, 6 to 9 p.m.
Where: Hale Koa Hotel, 2055 Kālia Rd.
Tickets: Pre-sale $65–$75, buy tickets

Held in the Lū‘au Garden in Waikiki, this festival is only open to Active, Retired, US Military and DOD ID holders and their guests. It also sells out quickly, so book tables in advance. This event features a large selection of German favorite foods, like Sauerbraten, Schweinshaxe, Bratwurst and more, with a few German beer selections for purchase. A live German band plays songs for dancing all night, with breaks for stein hoisting competitions.

Photo: Courtesy of International Market Place

Oktoberfest Hawai‘i at International Market Place

When: Saturday, Sept. 28, 4 to 10 p.m.
Where: International Market Place, 2330 Kalākaua Ave.
Tickets: Free on the first floor, general admission to second floor $45, VIP on third floor $85, buy tickets

Held in previous years at Aloha Stadium, this year, they’re using a new venue and concept. Each of the three floors of the International Market Place will have part of the festival: the first with free entry and cash bars, the second with beer tickets or beer/food combo tickets and the third with exclusive beer and food pairing tickets. All three levels have the option of purchasing more drink tickets as well.

Kailua Fall Festival

When: Saturday, Sept. 28, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m
Where: Multiple locations in Kailua
Tickets: General admission $20, VIP $85 at tickettailor.com/events/krave/1327304

The third annual block party and trolley crawl in Kailua is back, with Oktoberfest beers, food menus and free entry to the street festival for the whole family including pets. If you’re drinking, upgrade your experience with a wristband that grants access into nine bars around the Windward Side including Kailua Town Pub and Maui Brewing Kailua. VIP tickets grant guaranteed seating and discounts at some of the venues. See website for parking, transportation and entry details.

Photo: Courtesy of MWR Hawai‘i

Oktoberfest 2024 at Weyand Field, Schofield Barracks

When: Saturday, Sept. 28, 5 to 9:30 p.m.
Where: Weyand Field, Schofield Barracks, 1 Trimble Rd.
Tickets: Early entry $25, late entry $30, race $30, hawaii.armymwr.com/calendar/event

Another one open to Military/DOD ID holders and their guests, this family-friendly event includes all the traditional German beer, food and music by the 5^th Infantry Division Band. There will also be a Keiki Root Beer Festival, Mr. & Mrs. Oktoberfest Competition, Keg Competitions and bounce houses. The evening starts off with a Wurst 5K Fun Run with pretzels, brats, and chocolate cake to eat along the way.

Oktoberfest Honolulu Bar Crawl

When: Saturday, Sept. 28, 4 to 11 p.m.
Where: NextDoor, 43 North Hotel St.
Ticket presales: $17–$20, buy tickets

A new one this year from PubCrawls.com, this Oktoberfest-themed self-guided pub crawl of Chinatown starts at NextDoor and grants guaranteed admission to the bars on the list with discounted drink and food specials for purchase at each.

Also, keep an eye out for local breweries releasing Oktoberfest beers this year, including Landbier Before Time Dunkel from Kalili Beer. Prost!

Onkee Korean Grill House Is a New High Mark of Modern Korean Barbecue in Honolulu

Thomas Obungen — Mon, 16 Sep 2024 18:30:05 +0000

None of us were surprised when the owner of Onkee Korean Grill House told us that Honolulu’s Korean food scene felt stuck in the past. Skye Kim, who lives in Seoul and visits O‘ahu frequently, said local Korean restaurants hadn’t changed much in 20 years. While you could find that endearing in a nostalgic way, I find myself craving a taste of what people in Seoul are eating now.

Opened in late August, Onkee brings that taste of contemporary South Korea. On the second floor of Ward Village’s Kō‘ula Shops, with soaring ceilings and warm tones accented by stone, copper and steampunk iron fixtures, it certainly looks the part. Building materials, tableware, ceramics and even the Michelin restaurant-trained chefs are from Korea. In line with the looks and feel, the food is modern and well-executed.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

During a hosted media preview in a cozy private dining room, we try a good chunk of the menu, starting with the grilled beef. The main draw of Korean barbecue is the primeval act of cooking meat, watching it go from raw red cuts to smoking morsels grilled over flames. Onkee marinates only its kalbi short ribs, letting the inherent qualities of the other cuts shine—there are no dipping sauces to hide behind. Instead, two covered bowls at the table contain plain and herbed sea salts for seasoning. Steamed rice ($3) is available, but you need to order it separately.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Aside from Hangang, which also specializes in premium raw meats, Onkee’s high level of service and restrained aesthetic represent a Korean standard we have not seen since Budnamujip left. Whether you order by the cut or one of the combos, your server presents the meats on a butcher block before grilling them and letting you know when it’s time to meokda, or eat. Our server, a veteran of other local KBBQ restaurants, made sure we never had to fuss with the grill. Sometimes, it’s best to just let someone else (who isn’t eating) be the grill master.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Combo B ($190 for three or four people) starts with hanger steak, USDA Prime dry-aged ribeye and filet mignon and finishes with boneless marinated king kalbi short ribs cut in one long strip. Of these, I am most surprised by the filet mignon, which you season with herbed sea salt. Normally, I forgo this flavorless cut for the fattier ribeye, but the texture is just too good.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Now, if you’re wondering about the difference between Onkee and Han No Daidokoro two blocks over, that’s a valid question. The two restaurants couldn’t be more different. Han focuses on washugyu and wagyu beef that are coursed out in a Japanese-style meal. Onkee is unmistakably Korean—you eat family-style, with entrées and banchan side dishes containing bits of this and that.

The differentiator between the larger Combo B meat set and smaller Combo A ($110 for two people) is largely the filet mignon. It’s worth splurging on Combo B because a là carte, the tenderloin is $58 for six ounces; and Combo B’s four cuts of beef are enough to satisfy three or four adults, especially with sides.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Onkee’s haemul pajeon, or seafood and green onion pancake ($26), is incredible. This savory hubcap has generous pieces of plump whole shrimp, squid rings and green onions and stays crisp for the duration of dinner. The potato pancake, topped with wasabi aioli but more akin to a latke or rosti than its distant jeon cousin, is also a must-have if you’re looking for crunch and satisfaction.

Banchan are also more restrained in seasoning and allow the main ingredients to express their flavors. The wonbok kim chee, a $15 side, is especially pungent and has a wonderful depth of flavor in contrast to the more mild daikon radish and zucchini. Optional sides include gyeran-jjim steamed eggs, plain ($14) or with corn cheese ($16), ojing-o bokkeum stir-fried squid ($32), ssam lettuce wraps ($6) and grilled mackerel ($18). While the stir-fried squid ($32) is overly sauced and not as spicy as we’d hoped, the texture is ideal with just enough bite to keep you interested. Over a bowl of rice, it would be so good.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Soups, stews and cold noodles are also an obligatory part of KBBQ. At Onkee, we try the kalbi tang, or short rib soup ($32), and the North Korean-style mul-naengmyun cold noodles ($22). Both arrive in bangjja brassware bowls formerly used for nobility, matching the chopsticks and spoon. Of the two, the kalbi tang is our favorite for its unctuous base and thick cubes of short rib. On our next visit, we agree to try the doenjang chige soy bean paste soup ($18), which comes recommended by HONOLULU Magazine editorial director Diane Seo.

As the first restaurant for Kim and his wife, former professional golfer Grace Park, Onkee is a breath of fresh air. That’s in part because of the HVAC and grill system, but also because it feels seamless. From the upscale surroundings to the dry-aged beef and other dishes, this taste of modern Korean cuisine is something Honolulu needed.

Open daily 5 to 10 p.m., 1000 Auahi St., second floor, onkeehi.com, @onkeehawaii

Michelin Star Chef Sets Up a Tempura Omakase in Honolulu

Thomas Obungen — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 18:30:28 +0000

Photo: Thomas Obungen

In a city where sushi shops have dominated the lineup of new Japanese restaurants, a tempura omakase stands out. It’s not the sort of fried mound of waning crispiness served all at once on a platter. Tempura Ichika presents a chef’s choice meal where each seasonal ingredient is meticulously fried and coursed out one at a time.

Kiyoshi Chikano came to Honolulu to be closer to his native Japan. After spending 16 years rising through the ranks to executive tempura chef at Nadaman Restaurants in Sapporo, he joined the team at Tempura Matsui in New York in 2015. For eight straight years, he helped that restaurant earn a Michelin star. In April, Chikano became the executive chef of Tempura Ichika, bringing his Michelin pedigree to Honolulu. Other than Matsui, Tempura Endo in Los Angeles is the only comparable restaurant stateside.

SEE ALSO: Honolulu’s Omakase Obsession

What feels like a portal to a restaurant in Tokyo’s Ebisu neighborhood, Ichika’s blonde oak interior frames an eight-seat counter that surrounds an open space where Chikano works at a copper-clad frying station. Two tables are tucked out of view for private dining. The warm aromas of sesame and cottonseed oils add to an ambiance that concentrates your focus on the food.

Executive chef Kiyoshi Chikano (left) and sushi chef Ken Kawakami (right). Photo: Thomas Obungen

As of Aug. 1, that food is not just tempura. That’s the day Tempura Ichika debuted the city’s newest sushi omakase. Both offerings are $160 before tax and an 18% service fee. The tempura progression includes sashimi, a starter course, 10 pieces of seasonal tempura, a starch and a dessert finale. The Edomae sushi omakase features a sashimi starter, 12 to 13 nigiri, hot food items and a sweet ending.

I’ve now dined here three times—twice as a media guest and the third time for tempura on my own dime.

The journey to tempura nirvana begins with sashimi, which recently was local ‘ahi and buttery hamachi. This is followed by a warm chawanmushi with sweet Hokkaido murasaki uni and edamame over snow crab ankake sauce with anago suspended in the delicately savory custard. This is a wonderful hint at a meal of more highs.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

You’ll know the main event is about to start when servers place sea and kombu salts, lemon and daikon oroshi in tempura sauce on your lacquer tray. As each piece of tempura arrives, servers relay Chikano’s instructions on which salt or sauce pairs best.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Two sets of kuruma ebi legs fried into the crispiest shrimp chips are always the first course. If you’re drinking, start with something dry and effervescent like a brut Champagne with high acid to counter the tempura. Next comes the actual shrimp, also two times, so you can dip the first in sea salt and second in daikon oroshi with tempura sauce. Shrimp is often one of the coveted pieces in a tempura assortment, but served first at Ichika, it’s a sign that it’s only up from here.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

At a media preview, I try tempura of abalone, snow crab wrapped in shiso leaf, Hokkaido uni wrapped in nori, Okinawan sweet potato batons and chrysanthemum greens. Other pieces that stand out from my most recent visit include delicate belt fish topped with lobes of Hokkaido uni with yuzu kosho, eggplant garnished with the tiniest knob of minced ginger, sansho-pepper-dusted red snapper and luscious Hokkaido scallops with kizami wasabi. Each piece has a veil of batter, just enough to protect it from the dunk in bubbling oil.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

We progress through a parade of fried bites with sips of 2010 Le Montrachet white Burgundy, one of the most coveted and ideal expressions of chardonnay, and a 1999 vintage Chinon Clos Du Chêne Vert from Charles Joguet. These may have been more celebratory wines, but they paired incredibly well with our equally celebratory meal. If you have reservations before Sept. 6, you are welcome to bring your own bottles, corkage-free.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

The two-hour meal concludes with a tendon of tempura over rice, miso soup and pickles. If you were not yet at the edge of contentment, this course gets you there. Dessert, a tiny ball of yuzu sorbet or matcha ice cream, follows, with hot tea. If you want to enjoy each course at your own pace, book the later of the two seatings.

If Chikano’s tempura isn’t your fancy, there’s now the Edomae sushi omakase. Ken Kawakami, an 18-year sushi veteran from Osaka, spent some time in Ginza, Tokyo before coming to Hawai‘i where he spent much of his career behind the counters at Hatsuhana Japanese Restaurant and more recently, Restaurant Suntory.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

His seared nodoguro with yuzu zest and sea salt, ishigaki gai giant clam, amadai snapper and local amaebi all made me sink into my seat. Kawakami blends his own red and rice vinegar to season rice to a darker hue, a hallmark of Edomae sushi. I appreciate Kawakami’s amiable personality; it’s easy to interact with him. Sometimes, a sushi omakase is less enjoyable if you’re not able to understand what you’re eating, but at Ichika, this isn’t an issue.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

For now, there are two nightly seatings for tempura and one seating for sushi. In the future, the offerings will blend slightly as the chefs work together to find their synergy.

Photo: Thomas Obungen

I might not have booked an omakase more than once a year, but having been lucky enough to try three omakase meals since May, I am more inclined to save my dollars to book one seasonally, especially as seafood flavors become richer and more flavorful in the fall and winter months.

Reservations required. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 to 10 p.m., 434 Pi‘ikoi St., (808) 888-0000, ichikahawaii.com, @tempura_ichika